224 THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



sun ; but where they cannot strike their roots into the ground here they must 

 grow until the middle of September, but must never be neglected. Watering 

 will be essential, for if permitted to want moisture they will lose their foliage at 

 the bottom. They will, many of them, flower at twelve inches high. The old 

 roots may be planted in the ground to grow for young stock, and flower if they 

 will in the borders. 



Annuals, sown late, must be thinned if too thick, and the plants pulled 

 out may be planted anywhere. In mild autumns these late sown and late 

 planted annuals prolong the beauties of the garden. 



Make St raw berry -beds of the strongest runners, but to anticipate this the 

 ronners may be pegged down in June, in pots placed on the old beds, and they 

 will have struck root sufficiently to turn out in the new beds, or to force in tbe 

 pots. 



Stone Fruit Trees may now be budded in the same way as roses, except 

 that it is well to cut down the stocks to within a few inches of the ground, and 

 bud these, so that for standards, the new variety forms tho trunk. Proper sticks 

 may be had at the nurseries. 



Trained Fruit Trees should have useless roofs removed, and such shoots 

 taken back as are required to throw out lateials, or are wanted for bearing. 

 Maiden fruit trees making their first shoots should be topped in early growth 

 and they will form side branches strong enough to save a year in the training. 

 Standards must of cource be allowed to run up until they arrive at the length 

 required for the trunk. 



"Vines require th^ same continued management as before directed. 



All fruit bushes and trees should have their useless spindling growth cut 

 out, currant and gooseberry trees especially, whose fruit ought to be thinned, so 

 as to give the remainder the whole nourishment of the tree. 



Scarlet Beans. — Put sticks to them, or give them some other means of 

 support. 



Potatoes. — Earth up well to cover the tubers, and give them room to 

 swell. 



Letiuce, Radish (the turnip kind), and Salads.— Continue to sow enough 

 to meet the consumption. 



Cucumber?. — Train the shoots along the surface so as to be out of each 

 other's way, and give the fruit room, and water must be administered. 



Plant a main crop of celery, use the strongest plants, dig trenches a foot to a 

 foot and a half wide and a foot deep, four feet apart from centre to centre ; put 

 good three inches thick of rotten dung in the bottom, and fork it six inches ioto 

 soil, well mixing it as you proceed ; level, and plant nine inches apart down the 

 centre of the trench, these to be earthed up as the plants advance. 



Winter Greens, Brocoli, Savoys, Borecole, Brussels Sprouts, Bed Cabbage, 

 Scotch Kale, etc., should be planted after dripping weather; a rainy season saves 

 enormous labour. Sow Winter Spinach. 



Beans. — Top those in flower, and earth np others. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



Guano Water. — B. B., Longton. — Half a pint of guano dissolved in six or 

 eight gallons of water, and applied as required, will be found of service to many 

 kinds of flnwers ; but no fixed rule of application can be given, for what suits one 

 kind of plant might kill another. As to vegetables which are wanted to grow 

 quickly, you can hardly go wrong with them. Of course, they will take stronger 

 doses than flowers. 



Clubbing.— Subscriber. — The disease called clubbing originates in the soil ; 

 but the grub which causes it sometimes attacks the plants while in the seed-bed. 



Walks — Amafeur, Devizes. — Excellent walks may be made by mixing well- 

 washed gravel, lime, and hot gas tar, in such proportions as will form a black 

 mortar. If laid four inches thick, it will last a very long time, always be dry, 

 and no weeds will grow on it. If thicker, and on a layer of chalk or gravel, so 

 much the better. 



