THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 281 



selecting the best, add a liberal mixture of sharp sand, broken pots- 

 herds, or small pieces of charcoal, to insure the free percolation of 

 water through the mass after the fibre has become decayed. 



PENTAS CARKEA. 



i'HIS desirable plant, though not of very recent intro- 

 duction, is deserving of especial notice, on account of 

 its excellent habit of fioweriDg long and freely, and also 

 because it is exceedingly easy to manage. Its numerous 

 trusses of delicate rose-coloured blossoms will be found 

 very useful where cut flowers are much wanted. 



The best time for propagating young plants is during spring, 

 or the early part of summer. The cuttings should be taken otf 

 when two or three inches long, with a bit of the old wood attached. 

 These should be inserted in a well-drained pot filled with a light 

 sandy compost, and afterwards placed in a close hotbed, frame, or 

 pit, where a warm atmosphere and a little bottom-heat can be 

 obtained. In this situation, with due regard to watering, shading, 

 etc., in a few weeks the cuttiDgs will become well rooted, when they 

 may be potted singly into three or four-inch pots, and replaced in a 

 warm situation, as near the glass as possible. A temperature of 

 from 60° to 65° will suit them well. With favourable weather, a 

 gradual increase of air should be given, shading slightly in bright 

 weather, if necessary, and syringing overhead on sunny afternoons. 

 As they advance in growth, the principal shoots should be topped, 

 and the plants repotted as the pots become filled with roots, 

 observing that they should be topped a few days before or after 

 potting, so as not to check the progress of the roots and branches at 

 one time. If cuttings are rooted early in spring, by July they 

 should be good compact bushes, in nine or ten-inch pots. If now 

 large enough to suit the purpose of the cultivator, they may be 

 allowed to flower, by discontinuing the stopping. 



As the flower shoots advance, a little attention is requisite to 

 tying out, or otherwise supporting them in an erect position. 

 When in bloom the plants may, if required, be removed to a cool 

 situation, where, if protected from cold winds, they will continue a 

 long time in beauty. After flowering, I place them in a cool dry 

 house, and during winter give only sufficient water to keep the 

 foliage in health. Towards February or March, or earlier if required, 

 I remove them to a warm house, previously pruning the branches 

 into a compact form. When they have started into growth, the 

 roots should be examined, and, if necessary, a shift given into larger 

 pots. Stopping may now be continued only as long as it may be 

 desirable to increase the size of the plant, which will be in flower in 

 six or seven weeks after the last stop. If pruned back after the 

 flowers are faded, a second and third crop of blossoms may be 



September. 



