324 THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 



you see signs of growth, but sparingly until they have made leaves, 

 etc., to draw up and give oft' moisture. March will generally be 

 found to be the time when they will commence growth. As soon as 

 they are above the soil, remove them to a situation where they will 

 be near the glass and have plenty of air, for after success depends 

 upon getting them strong at this stage. Do not allow them to 

 remain in the small pots in which they were wintered until their 

 roots become matted ; the best way of managing this is occasionally 

 to examine them. I always shift into flowering-pots just as the 

 plants have protruded an abundance of fresh roots against the sides 

 of the pots. For strong bulbs with one stem use twelve-inch pots, 

 and for such as produce two stems a size larger. Weaker bulbs, 

 such as produce about seven flowers, will not require pots above 

 eight inches, and offsets of the first year will not require above five- 

 inch pots. 



In shifting into the flowering-pots, be careful to place the crown 

 of the bulbs about three inches below the surface of the soil, as they 

 produce a quantity of strong roots from the base of the stem. They 

 ought, after potting, to occupy a place near the glass; and avoid a 

 warm house if you wish a strong bloom. As regards w atering, they 

 must have a careful supply, neither too much nor too little ; but 

 if they can be sprinkled overhead witli the syringe before shutting 

 up the house, they will not require much water at the roots for 

 some time. Towards the end. of May, if the weather is favourable, 

 they may be placed in a warm, sheltered spot out of doors, and ought 

 to have their stems tied to a stake, in order to prevent their being 

 injured by wind. A few plants may be retained in the greenhouse, 

 with a view to have them in flower earlier. Indeed, I place some of 

 my bulbs in a moderately close, warm house early in March, and I 

 manage to have them in flower early in August; others I retard, to 

 prolong their flowering until October; but a season's practice will 

 be the best guide in this matter. 



These lilies are not liable to suffer from the attacks of insects, 

 but the green-fly will occasionally make its appearance upon such of 

 the plants as may have been kept over warm. If so, fumigate at 

 once with tobacco-smoke, or wash the leaves with weak tobacco- 

 water. 



I have said nothing about soil, for they are not very particular 

 in this respect. I use fresh fibrous loam and peat in equal portions, 

 with a sufficient quantity of sand to render it porous. If peat can- 

 not be had, use leaf-soil. Some say, however, that the flowers are 

 much higher coloured in peat. 



The only thing requiring further notice is, to be careful of the 

 flowers when you have got them, syringing overhead, or a damp, 

 stagnant atmosphere will spoil them, just as it would a light-coloured 

 camellia flower. I once lost a fine head of bloom in this way. If 

 you are anxious to propagate them, it may be effected by means of 

 the scales of the bulbs. Fill a pan similar to that recommended for 

 growing them in ; lay the scales upon the surface, and sprinkle a 

 little fine soil over them ; give a little water, and place the pan in a 

 close, warm atmosphere. This is, however, a part of the business 



