1861.] BOTANY OF SPAIN. 357 



be 3800 feet above the sea, from which its distance is not great, 

 and the mountain is a conspicuous object from the coast road, 

 south of Barcelona. From the northern, or rather north-eastern 

 coast, it could also be seen for a considerable space, were not 

 the view intercepted by intervening high ground. From the 

 range behind Barcelona, a fine view of it may be had ; but at an 

 angle which does not give it the advantage of its entire length. 

 It is only from the Tarragona road, at a considerable distance 

 from Barcelona, that it can be seen spread out lengthwise in its 

 full dimensions. On a ledge in a receding hollow (or coomb) of 

 the mountain, nearly in the middle of its length, and seemingly 

 about the middle of its height (though really much lower), stands 

 the famous monastery. Like the other monasteries of Spain, once 

 so wealthy and powerful, it is now shorn of its glories ; but it is 

 still inhabited by a few monks, though in a number dispropor- 

 tioned to the size and aspect of the edifice, and their hospitality 

 is extended to travellers to the extent of lodging, but not of food; 

 which last is supplied at a tolerable restaurant within the pre- 

 cincts of the convent, the utility of which establishment atones 

 for its violation of the religio loci. The lodging in the convent 

 itself is gratuitous ; but travellers who can afford it, make a do- 

 nation (also gratuitous) to the funds of the convent. The sleep- 

 ing chambers, or cells, are neat, sufficiently commodious, beauti- 

 fully clean, and the views from their windows magnificent. The 

 one which I occupied looked across the hollow of the mountain, 

 upon the splendidly wooded other horn of the crescent, then vocal 

 with numerous nightingales. A copious spring, which issues 

 from the mountain just outside the gateway, had, no doubt, a 

 share in originally deciding the locality of the convent. 



The easiest way to Monserrat from Barcelona is by the Mau- 

 resa railway, one of the four v/hicli diverge from that city. From 

 the railway station to the mountain there is a broad and good 

 carriage-road, by means of which tourists and pilgrims are landed 

 in the very yard of the convent, from that universal symbol and 

 instrument of modern civilization, an omnibus. If this commo- 

 dious mode of access makes the expedition less romantic, it does 

 not make the place less beautiful. The prosaic vehicle winds its 

 way up the mountain-side through, for the South, a rather dense 

 wood, which, more or less open, according as the woodcutters 

 have been more or less recently in operation, covers a great part 



