Notes from Archangel. 55 



making the necessary preparations connected with our pass- 

 ports and " paderojna " (or posting-papers) . We proceeded 

 by steamer and canal-boat to Wuitegra (558 versts) via the 

 river Neva, Lake Ladoga, river Swir, and Onega canal. 

 Thence we travelled in " tarantasse " or country carts, and 

 in a steamer on the river Dwina to Archangel, 546 versts 

 further, reaching our destination on the 15th June, where, 

 having been provided with letters of introduction by our kind 

 friend Mr. H. E. Dresser, we met with a most hospitable 

 reception. Here, once for all, we may be allowed to express 

 our warmest thanks for all the kindness we met with during 

 our stay at Archangel. More especially are our acknowledg- 

 ments due to Mr. John Shergold and to Mr. Charles Birse, 

 Her Britannic Majesty's Consul. These gentlemen vied with 

 one another in rendering us every assistance ; Mr. Shergold 

 had engaged collectors for us before our arrival, and Mr. 

 Birse introduced us to the Messrs. Craemers; and to M. 

 Piottuch, who gave us most valuable help in collecting. Such 

 hospitality and kindness was shown to us on every side, that 

 we never can forget our friends in the far north. We now 

 proceed to give a short description of the country around 

 Archangel. 



The Dwina is a noble river, of considerable breadth, but 

 very shallow. Below Archangel it divides into innumerable 

 branches, and thus forms the great delta of islands which 

 extend about 40 versts further, to the White Sea. It is navi- 

 gable for river-steamers and flat-bottomed lighters for over 

 300 miles from its mouths ; and almost all the grain shipped 

 from Archangel comes down the river from the far-off central 

 provinces of Russia. The Dwina teems with fish ; and amongst 

 these, perhaps, the most remarkable is the far-famed Sterlet 

 (Acipenser ruthenus), which was formerly principally known 

 as an inhabitant of the Volga. About 1861, however, a canal 

 was formed in Vologda, connecting the head- waters of the 

 Volga with those of the Dwina; and live sterlet may now be 

 seen in numbers every market-day in Archangel. In St. 

 Petersburg, we were told, this fish fetches three times the price 

 of salmon. 



