92 GARDEN MANAGEMENT. 



of stone, slate, or some other hard, durable material, of sufficient width to 

 project four inches on each side of the wall. The top of the coping should bo 

 slightly convex, and the under surface as much concave, to facilitate the 

 removal of water. A groove should also be formed h an inch deep, and ^ 

 from the outside edge of the lower side, to intercept and throw off all drip. 

 The coping should also be made in as long lengths as possible, to reduce the 

 number of joinings. If stone is used, the joints should be formed of the best 

 Portland cement ; if slate, a mixtui-e of white and red lead must be used. 



It would also be advisable to have the 



I—* f— ' copings overlap, as they are compa- 



ratively useless unless waterproof. As 

 in fine weather, frost falls in nearly perpendicular or vertical lines, a coping 

 projecting over a wall will often protect the trees on its surface ; and it will do 

 this the more effectually if it has previously preserved them in a dry state. 

 However, permanent and temporary copings of much greater widths are 



frequently used. The accompanying section represents a 



bracket for supporting a slate coping in use on two walls 

 here. The top surface of the bracket consists of a bar of 

 iron two inches wide, on which the slate slabs meet. Our 

 slabs avei-age 3 feet 10 inches in length ; but of course any 

 length may be used : the longer and stronger the slabs, the 

 fewer the brackets required, and vice versd. An iron water- 

 "^^^^^ trough runs along in front, to convey the water into a drain 

 at the end. A great drawback to such copings is, that the trees are deprived 

 of the natural rains and dews. This, however, may be remedied, to some extent, 

 by syringing. Such brackets would be invaluable for applying temporary 

 copings of wood for a few weeks in spring and autumn. Notwithstanding all 

 that has been written against the practice, I am still in favour of affording- 

 protection to the surface of wall-trees when in blossom. No copings, wide or 

 narrow, permanent or temporary, will shelter them from cutting frosts driven 

 in upon them at that time by a sharp wind. No writer who condemns cover- 

 ing can be more alive to the great importance of thinning both wood and fruit, 

 getting the former thoroughly matured, and preserving the tree in the most 

 robust health ; but I really cannot see that this precludes us from protecting 

 the blossoms in the spring. Gk)od summer culture will doubtless secure a good 

 show of fruit, and endow the tree with sufficient strength to bring it to 

 maturity; but it never has, and never can, enable the tender^ blossoms of 

 peaches and apricots to withstand a frost of 2° without protection. The 

 system adopted here is, I believe, the same as that in use in the Royal Gar- 

 dens at Frogmore ; its great merit consists in the facility with which it can 

 Ve removed and applied at pleasure ; for I would rather not protect at all than 

 apply a permanent covering of any description. The artificial tenderness and 

 extra liability to the attraction of insects in consequence, would be moro 

 disastrous than the frost itself. No valid objection can, however, be urged 

 against temporary protection, applied only in cases of absolute necessity, and 



