134 GARDEN MAXAGESrEXT. 



302. Calceolarias. — To Sirile the different Sorts of Budding yellow, oMiF 

 keep them throvgh ike winter. — Take the cuttings eai-ly in October, and 

 having prepared a piece of ground in a north border, the soil of which 

 must be well drained, and made light with a large admixture of sand, place the 

 cuttings in, and press the earth well round them, water them well, and cover 

 with a hand-glass, or place the cuttings in pots, and having sunk them in a 

 north border, under a wall, place a hand-glass over them. In this way they 

 may be kept without further attention till the following spring, unless the 

 weather should be very frosty, in which case it may be well to throw some 

 covering over the hand-glass. In the spring the cuttings should be re-potted, 

 and will soon become fine i^lants. It is to be observed that the state of atmo- 

 spheric influence most favourable to all cuttings is when a change to moist 

 growing weather succeeds, within two or three days, the warm dry weather 

 during which the cuttings have been taken. 



303. EosES. — To Strike Per2)etv.al and other Roses, so as to produce d^va'ifs on 

 their own roots. — Any time from July to October take the matured wood of 

 the current year's growth of perpetual and other roses, having four eyes just 

 pi'otruding ; avoid, if possible, blossom-bearing shoots : plant these on a south 

 border, bui'ying two eyes in a sloping direction, from west to east, or, as the 

 gardeners say, in gi-aft. Be careful, also, to press the earth close round their 

 roots, and occasionally look over them, as worms, &c., may loosen the soil. 

 Cuttings are best left for two years, to become well rooted before they are 

 removed to the flower-beds, 



304. The following novel mode of striking rose-cuttings in autumn, which 

 has been most successfully practised by M, Varangot, of Melun, is reported 

 in the "Journal de la Societe Imperiale et Centrale d'Horticulture." It 

 involves but little trouble, and is adaj^ted to all sorts of perpetuals, and other 

 hybrids with hai'd wood, which are usually considered troublesome to strike. 

 In September or October, when the young wood is well ripened, take off the 

 shps, and cut them, in the usual way, to two or three eyes, according to the 

 distance which they are apart, taking care, at the same time, to retain a 

 portion of the principal leaf-stalk, and some of the stalks of the first leaflets. 

 Put them singly in small cutting-pots, or in pans, using plenty of drainers, 

 and filling up with peat, or with a compost of sand and leaf-mould. Plant 

 with a small dibber, pressing the soil firmly to the base of the cuttings ; then 

 water, and plunge the pots to half their depth in a bed sloping about six 

 inches, and well exposed to the sun ; and cover with a hand-glass. In a 

 fortnight or three weeks the cuttings will have callussed and emitted some 

 rootlets. They wiU not succeed weU in the shade, or under evergreens, so late 

 in the season. An old melon-bed is a good situation for them, as it does not 

 afford too much moisture. Shading should be attended to for some time, if the 

 autumn sun has much power. At the end of a fortnight, air must be given 

 by raising the edge of the hand-glass on a small pot. When fi'ost sets in, 

 keep the glass perfectly close, and put dry leaves round as high as the top of 

 the hand-glass. In April or Jlay the pots will be found well filled with roots, 



