172 GARDEN MANAGEME^T. 



1. Cabbages : 2. celeiy ; 3. broad beans ; 4. ininner beans ; 5. pear-trees, as 

 espaliers, on the dotted lines ; 6. runner beans ; 7. broad beans ; 8. cauli- 

 flowers ; 9. early broccoli. 



410. The angular comer, a, is devoted to Jerusalem artichokes, and the 

 quarter he to— 1. Gooseberries ; 2. a row of cherry-trees, on the dotted lines ; 

 8. black currants ; 4. red currants ; 5. white cm-rants ; an alley, two feet 

 wide, separating each quarter. 



411. The broad border under the north wall is cropped with— 1. Spring let- 

 tuces ; 2. radishes ; 3. early potatoes ; 4. early peas ; 5. early beans ; 6. kid- 

 ney beans ; 7. early strawberries ; 8. early-horn cai-rots ; and other crops 

 requiring a warm border. The border itself should not be less than 8 feet, 

 and, if the wall is covered with peaches, it should be 12 or 16. When the 

 front border is occupied with vegetables, we have seen it recommended 

 somewhere, in the interest of the wall fruit, that a portion about 2 feet, 

 sloping gently from the wall, should be reserved, elevated an inch or two 

 above the border ; thus forming a slight terrace, to be left uncropped, and 

 kept free from weeds. On the north wall (it being understood that, in gar- 

 dening language, the north waU means a north aspect) plums, cheiTies, and 

 pears should be planted. 



412. In dealing with asparag-us, seakale, and other crops usually termed 

 permanent crops, Mr. Errington selects from the beds what he wants each 

 season for forcing, planting as much every year as he removes ; those removed 

 are replaced by celery, and the celery by the preparers, and these in their 

 turn by the Brassicse. The portion devoted to permanent crops, as well as 

 the quai-ters devoted to bush-fruit, are thus brought into his system of rotation- 

 cropping. 



413. There are certain permanent crops, both of vegetables and fruit-trees, 

 ■which will occupy the gardener in the autumn months. To begin with the 

 borders ; in preparing them, dig out the soil to the depth of 4 feet, and in 

 this trench place first about a foot in thickness of brick rubbish, or any coarse 

 stuff, which, when rammed down hai'd, will prevent the wall-trees forming 



tap-roots. 



414. If the soil is naturally good loam, no more is required than to mix 

 a quantity of well-rotted dung with it before throwing it back into the trench, 

 making the border slope gradually towards the path. If the soil requires 

 improving, get a quantity of friable loam, mix rotten dung with it in the 

 proportion of one part dung to three parts loam, and mix this again with 

 the soil of the border where the trees are to stand. Plant healthy young 

 trees of peach, nectarine, and apricot, and, if desirable, with grape-vines 

 and figs : these ought to be placed 12 or 15 feet apart ; and I have seen a 

 very convenient plan of growing grapes on a wall between the peaches. The 

 latter were placed 15 feet apart, and a vine planted in each space halfway 

 between ; the vine was carried in a single stem to the top of the wall, where it 

 divided into two stems, which were trained right and left \mder the coping ; 

 and as they were pnmed on the spur system, they took up little, room, and 



