190 GARDEN MANAGEMENT. 



month, a good stock of pinks, sweet-williams, and lilies of the valley, should 

 be started in pits or frames. The temperature of the forcing-house should 

 not be suffered to fall below 50° ; and as the days lengthen, the temperature 

 should be increased 4° or 5° until it attains a minimum temperature of 60°, 

 and a maximum of 70°, by artificial heat, and an increase of 10° by sun heat ; 

 giving air daily, even if for a short time only, and keeping the atmosphere 

 always moist and genial by smnging or watering the pipes and flags. 



472. Greenhouse. — With the opening year and the lengthening day, the busy 

 season in the greenhouse commences ; plants of all kinds begin to move, and 

 most of them may now be assisted with a little heat. Soft-wooded plants, 

 may be stimulated by it ; and, when they begin to gi'ow, moved into the 

 larger pots, in which they are to flower ; while those which are more advanced 

 and showing bloom, may be introduced into a warmer place. Many cinerarias 

 are now in bloom, and may be removed to the window or conservatory, while 

 those reserved for blooming ir. May and June should still be kept in cold pits 

 or frames, taking care to guard them from severe frosty weather, and espe- 

 cially from moisture. If large cinerarias are required, shift a few into larger 

 pots, and pinch off the tops to produce a bushy head, tying or pegging down 

 the side-shoots to keep them open, keeping them supplied moderately witL 

 moisture, and giving air on every possible occasion. 



473. Fuchsias may be started this month, and large early - flowering 

 specimens produced by cutting down the old plants and shaking the roots out 

 of the old soil as soon as they have broken, re-potting them in a good rich 

 compost, with sufficient drainage. Strike cuttings for bedding-plants as soon 

 as the shoots are long enough. 



474. Calceolarias require great attention as to watering. Eemove all decay- 

 ing leaves as they appear, peg down the shoots to the soil, that they may root 

 up the stems and thus streng-then the plant. As seedlings advance, shift them 

 into larger pots, and prick off those sown for late blooming. In potting, use a 

 compost of light turfy loam, well-decomposed manure and leaf-mould, and 

 a hberal portion of silver-sand, with an ample drainage of potsherds and 

 charcoal, and keep them fi-ee from insects. 



475. Pelargoniums which are strongly rooted may be shifted into larger 

 pots and stronger soil, using silver-sand freely, taking care that the pots are 

 clean and dry and the drainage good. Stop some of the plants required for suc- 

 cession, remove decaying leaves, and thin out weak shoots. Stake and tie out the 

 shoots of those sufficiently advanced, to admit air to the centre. In plants of 

 dwarf habit, peg the shoots down to the edge of the pot, to encourage foliage. 

 Stir and top-dress the soil from time to time, if required : a watering once or 

 twice with lime-water and soot imparts a rich dark colour to the foliage, and 

 destroys worms in the soil. 



476. Where early flowers are required, and a stove or hothouse or other 

 forcing convenience is at hand, remove a few plants, such as Admiral Napier, 

 Alba niultiflora, Amas, Jenny Lind, or any more recent early-flowering sort, 

 for forcinsr. 



