288 GARDEN MANAGEMENT. 



make no visible progress for six weeks or two months. They are, however, 

 progressing within, forming their seeds, or stoning, as it is technically called. 

 A temperature of 60° at night is enough until this work is completed. 



789. The Finery. — Many of the fruiting plants will now be showing flower. 

 Maintain a minimum temperature of 70°, allowing a rise of 10° or 15° in the 

 sun, and a rather dry atmosphere, until the blooming period is over. Drip, 

 or too much water on the blossom, will prevent it setting. Unless it set, that 

 pip will not swell, and one pip vacant in a pine destroys the beauty and 

 symmetry of the finest fruit. Water with water at 80° immediately after 

 potting, to prevent the roots receiving a check from the cold soil, and main- 

 taining a nice growing heat of 65° to 70°. 



790. Peaches. — Guard against sudden or great variations of temperature, 

 and cutting draughts ; and syringe morning and evening as soon as the fruit 

 is set. Begin to disbud the more forward woodbuds, leaving the strongest and 

 best-placed shoots. This disbudding should be done very gradually : say at 

 five or six periods, during the early stages of growth. Early peaches, after 

 they are stoned, will beai* a temperature of 70° with safety. They should be 

 exposed to all thehght and atr possible, consistent with the principles enunciated 

 in the preface to these instructions. 



791. Stra-icheryies. — There is no better position for these plants during 

 winter than the floor of an orchard-house, cool, dry, and free from frost, which 

 preserves them in a healthy, dormant state. They may now be looked over, 

 top-dressed, raked, and plunged in a pit with a bottom-heat of 50°, gi\'ing air 

 in sufiicient quantity, dry and bright, to keep the top for another fortnight at 

 40° to 45°. This will secure a root-action in advance of the top ; so that, when 

 the top moves and the trusses appear, plenty of active roots may be ready to 

 minister to its wants. After that period, the temperature in the pit may be 

 raised from 45° to 55° ; and this should not be much exceeded until the fruit 

 are set. They will then bear ten degrees more heat during the ripening 

 period. Plants may also be introduced upon shelves in vineries, &c. ; but a 

 pit for themselves is the best place for them. For succession, introduce a 

 fresh batch of plants every fortnight. Cuthill's Black-friar is a useful, early 

 sort. Nothing, however, is better than Sheen's seedling for the early, and 

 British Queen for the late crops. Instructions for preparing the plants for 

 forcing will appear at the proper time. — D. T. F. 



§ 8.— Hotbed and Frame Cultivation. 



792. Cucumbers. — Where cucumbers have not already been started, it should 

 be done now, as formerly described, the manure being shaken and turnc;^. 

 over three or four times ; for on this everything depends, the heat lasts longer, 

 and the plants are not exposed to violent and irregular heating. When the 

 bed is made, some gardeners recommend its being left a short time to settle, 

 before putting on the frame and lights, in order to prevent violent heating and 

 rapid sinking, from the additional weight of the frame ; but if the bed has 



