THE DAHLIA. oiT 



sign of the garden : if a portion of the garden is devoted to them, either for 

 the plants or the flowers, they will be best displayed in beds three feet wide, with 

 illeys between. The beds being marked by stakes placed at each corner, four- 

 Inches of the surface-soil is removed, and four inches of thoroughly rotted manure 

 put in its place, and the whole deeply dug and the manure thoroughly mixed 

 with the soil in digging. In the beds thus prepared the plants are placed, 

 the collar, as they have grown in the pots, being on the surface of the beds. 

 The 3-foot beds will receive each a row ; the stakes are firmly fixed 4, 5, or 

 6 feet apart, according to the size of the plants ; the plants themselves are- 

 planted 4 inches deep, so that the crown of the plant is just above the surface. 

 As the plant increases in growth, tying up commences ; at the same time a. 

 diligent search should be made for slugs, earwigs, and other pests of the- 

 garden. These must be rooted out, or they will root out the dahlias, or at 

 least destroy their flower. Where any of the plants show a weak and drooping- 

 gro-5vth, time will be saved by re-striking the top ; although they will bloom 

 later, the flowers will be stronger than they would be after the plant has- 

 received a check. 



983. During June and July they require careful attention in watering anJ 

 stirring the soil about the roots. As the lateral shoots attain sufficient length, 

 tie them up so as to prevent their breaking, placing other stakes for the pur- 

 pose, should that be necessary. This prevents their clinging too near to the 

 stem, and permits of a free circulation of air round the plants. When they 

 are intended either for exhibition or for highly-developed flowers, only one 

 bud should be left on a shoot, shading the flower both from the sun and rain by 

 tin sconces, oil-skin caps, or inverted flowerpots, placed over the top of th& 

 stake to which it is tied, while all superfluous and useless shoots are removed, 

 and the growth of the plant encouraged by every possible means. As 

 the autumn approaches, the swelling shoots render it necessary to examiner 

 those tied up, slacking the strings, where necessary, to prevent them from 

 being galled. 



9S4. Where they are to fill a place in the general arrangement of the garden 

 and shrubbery, care should be taken to supply them with suitable soil. Peat- 

 mould, mixed with sand, is useful in developing stripes and spots on the flower. 

 As the plants progress, the lateral shoots, as well as the central stem, require 

 support by tying up, and the roots should be assisted by stirring the soil with 

 a fork e-very two or three weeks, and by copious watering, removing all dead 

 or straggling shoots, and keeping the plant trim and well-staked. 



985. Dividing the Roots. — Another and more common practice in gardens is to 

 place the whole tuber in some warm place in March, and, when the eyes show 

 themselves, cut up the tubers, and in May plant them at once six inches below 

 the surface, in the place where they are to bloom, staking them and leaving 

 them to nature until they are sufficiently grown to compel attention ; but 

 even for common bedding-out purposes, and for filling up gaps, the plant is 

 worthy of greater care than this amounts to. Light- coloured flowers are con- 

 firmed in their beauty by seclusion from sun and air while they are developing 



