THE FLOEIST-FLOWER GARDEN. 535 



but without stones or rubbish at the bottom. The bed may be dug out 

 four feet wide and 2 feet 6 inches deep, and the compost previously pre- 

 pared filled in till it is a few inches above the path, the centre being two 

 inches higher than the sides. All water must be withdrawn from the bottom 

 of the bed : it is not enough to give drainage, unless an outlet is found 

 so as to avoid stagnant water. Giving a few days for the bed to settle, 

 rake all smooth again, leaving the bed three inches above the path. On 

 this the tuhps are placed in seven rows across the bed, and six inches apart in 

 the rows. They are pressed in a little ; soil is then placed upon them, three 

 inches above the crown of the bulbs, so that the bed being raised in the centre, 

 the middle row will be covered four or five inches. The bulbs are planted, of 

 course, according to their height and colour, — those grovsdng 15 or 18 inches oc- 

 cupying the outside rows ; the second rows on each side are those growing two 

 feet, and those growing 2 feet 6 inches occupy the three centre rows. When 

 planted and covered, they may be left until the leaf-buds begin to peep through 

 the ground. Of course the sides of the bed will be protected by edgings either 

 of wood or tiles. 



1659. -^^ frost approaches, while giving as much air as possible, they should 

 be protected against it by mats or other shelter, but not longer than is neces- 

 sary ; otherwise they get drawn up weakly. In February they begin to appear, 

 when the ground should be stirred, all lumps broken, and pressed close round 

 the stems. As the spikes begin to open, they form a receptacle for the wet, 

 and the frost must not then be allowed to reach them. When the colours begin 

 to show, in order to protect their bloom, a top-cloth must be provided to shelter 

 them from the sun, taking care that no more air than is absolutely necessary 

 is excluded, the cloth being let down on the sunny side only, and that only 

 when the sun is powerful. 



1660. By the end of June the stems have turned brown or yellow ; as soon 

 as the leaves begin to decay, the bulbs may be taken up, dried, and stored 

 away in drawers provided for them, which are usually marked in seven 

 compartments, so that each row in the bed occupies a similar place in the 

 drawers. 



1 66 1. The best time for planting is the last fortnight in October, or early 

 in November. Tulip-seed may be sown either in spring or autumn, and in the 

 soil already described ; it should be saved from the best flowers only, and 

 those grown by themselves, where no inferior pollen can reach them. The 

 small offsets should be planted by themselves and labelled, in similar soil to- 

 that already described. Breeders such as we have described may be grown in 

 any soil. 



1662. Tulips are divided into Roses, Byblomens, and Bizarres. Eoses have 

 a white ground, and crimson, pink, or scarlet markings. 



1663. Byblomens are those having a white ground, and purple, lilac, or 

 black markings. 



1664. Bizarres have a yellow ground, with any coloured marks that present 

 themselves. 



