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twcen other fruit-trees on north walls, or palings, 

 for later crops; these may be covered with 

 double nets, to preserve them from birds ; tuck- 

 ing in a few fern branches between the two nets, 

 which will prevent the heat of the sun and dry- 

 ing winds from shrivelling the fruit. In the 

 quarters they should be covered with mats for 

 the same purpose; at the same time permitting 

 all the leaves to remain on the bushes, to shade 

 the fruit and make it keep the longer in a pro- 

 per state." 



In regard to the pruning of the hushes, the 

 work may, according to the above author, " be 

 begun in the month of November, and conti- 

 nued till March, as it suits the planter's conve- 

 nience. And they should never be left too thick 

 of wood; but a great deal depends on the ma- 

 nagement of them in summer, to have strong 

 an3 tine wood for the following season. If they 

 have been neglected for some years, and suf- 

 fered to run up to long naked wood, they must, 

 he savs, be cut down near the ground ; thev 

 will then set forth fine strong shoots. In this 

 case, he would recommend heading down every 

 other tree, and cutting the others partially, by 

 taking out every other branch as near as can be 

 to the ground, unless they are trained up with 

 single stems, in which case it will be necessary 

 to cut them as near as possible to where the 

 branches begin to break out and form the bead." 



And " in the winter pruning, the strongest 

 and finest shoots should be preserved, leaving 

 them from nine to eighteen inches long, ac- 

 cording to their strength, and from eight to ten 

 inches apart, and as regular as possible from top 

 to bottom of the tree ; taking care to cut out all 

 the dead and weak shoots." And '* particular 

 attention should be paid in summer, keeping 

 the middle of the bush open to admit the sun 

 and air; preserving the finest and strongest 

 shoots that are nearest the stem. Some, he says,' 

 are fond of training them up with single stems, 

 to a considerable height, to form fine round 

 heads, which are very ornamental, if not suf- 

 fered to run up too high ; as in that case they 

 are liable to be broken by the wind, if not well 

 supported by stakes. Care must be taken not to 

 let the shoots run to more than six inches long, 

 because such short shoots will not be so liable 

 to be damaged by the wind as long and weak 

 ones are, especially when loaded with fruit. He 

 prefers dwarfs from three to four feet high." 



It is added, that " the same manner of prun- 

 ing, &c, will do for Black Currants; but, as 

 they grow stronger than the red or white, the 

 shoots should be left thinner, and laid in longer, 

 which will make them produce larger and finer 

 fruit." And " those against walls and palings 



should have the shoots laid in thinner than those 

 in the quarters, and trained as horizontals as 

 possible, shortening them in the winter pruning 

 to a toot or eighteen inches, according to the 

 strength of the shoots." 



And as this sort of fruit " is very liable to 

 be devoured by earwigs, which take shelter un- 

 der their leaves and branches, bundles of bean- 

 stalks should, he says, be hung up some time 

 before the bushes are covered w ith mats or nets. 

 If proper attention be not paid to this, the fruit 

 will generally suffer very much from these in- 

 sects. After the bushes are covered, take the 

 mats off once in three or four days, and kill the 

 earwigs that have got into the bean-stalks, which 

 it will be necessary still to keep hung up. As 

 there is a sweetness in the inside of beanstalks 

 which attracts the earwigs, they very readily 

 take shelter in them from rain. By proper atten- 

 tion to these directions, these destructive insects 

 may be kept under, and the greater part of the 

 fruit be preserved." 



It is also necessary to carefully stock up all 

 suckers at the roots of the trees, and keep them 

 as clean as possible, otherwise they will prevent 

 the sun and air from penetrating to the roots, 

 and greatly weaken and injure the trees. 



These plants are very liable to be infested with 

 aphides and other insects, from which they 

 should be freed as soon as possible, by proper 

 picking, washing, and liming. 



Culture in the Gooseberry Kind. — These are 

 capable of being raised by cuttings and layers, 

 as well as seeds for new varieties. They are 

 likewise sometimes increased by suckers ; but 

 this last is not an advisable method, as the plants 

 raised in this way are more apt to throw out 

 suckers than those from cuttings or seed. 



The cuttings should be made from the strong- 

 est and cleanest shoots, and have the length of 

 seven or eight inches, being planted out in he 

 early autumn, in a border which has an eastern 

 or northern aspect, at the distance of about a 

 foot from row to row, and having only about 

 three or four inches of each cutting above the 

 ground ; as by this means they may be kept clean 

 by hoeing. They require to be frequently wa- 

 tered in the spring season, when the weather is 

 dry. 



The layers may be laid down anytime in the 

 autumn or spring season, in the common wav, 

 when they readily strike root, and in the follow- 

 ing autumn may be taken off and planted out 

 where they are to remain, or in nursery rows, 

 to get strength to be finally planted out. 



The seed obtained from the ripened berries 

 should be sown in the autumn or verv early 

 spring, in a bed of fine light mould ; the 

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