RUB 



RUB 



posed of many acini, acid, mucilaginous and not 

 unpleasant. It is a native of Sweden, &c. 



Culture. — In the first sort and varieties it may 

 be effected by suckers and layers. The plants 

 should always have a portion of ground to them- 

 selves, being planted at the distance of about six 

 feet from row to row, and four in the rows, with 

 the exception of the Early White sort, which 

 may be set out closer. 



According to Mr. Forsyth, the ground should 

 first be well trenched over and dunged ; then, 

 making choice of the strongest and finest plants 

 that come out from the sides of the stools, where 

 they have been standing for some years, or en- 

 couragina the strongest plants that come out 

 betwixt the rows after digging, which should be 

 done annually, they may be planted out as above. 

 In digging the ground, it frequently happens 

 that the roots are cut with the spade, which 

 occasions a great number of small plants to come 

 up; of these the strongest and finest should, 

 he says, be selected, hoeing up all the superfluous 

 ones. But he prefers laying down some of the 

 strongest outside shoots in the month of March; 

 as by the following autumn they will make fine 

 roots, and may be planted out in a quarter or 

 piece of ground where they are intended to re- 

 main. These will not be so liable, he thinks, to 

 throw out suckers as those which are produced 

 from suckers. The fresh pieces of ground should 

 always be planted in moist weather, as the roots 

 are very delicate, and liable to be hurt when ex- 

 posed to a dry air. If, however, they are planted 

 in dry weather, he advises that care be taken to 

 moisten the roots with water, and cover them 

 well with wet litter, or leaves, during the time 

 in which they are planting out. In performing 

 the work a trench should be opened with a spade 

 along the line where the suckers or layers are to 

 be pfanted, cutting oft' all the small fibry roots 

 with a knife, leaving only the stronger roots; put- 

 ting them into thetrench, andcovenng them with 

 some earth ; then watering them well, and throw- 

 ing the remainder of the earth over them, letting 

 them remain till you have finished planting the 

 piece ; then, whe're you first began to plant, be- 

 ginning to tread the ground with the foot as hard 

 as possible along each of the trenches, and in 

 the same direction as planted ; then with a spade 

 levelling all the ground smooth, and running it 

 over with a rake, taking oft' any stones and rub- 

 bish that may be left on the surface, so as to ren- 

 der it perfectly even. 



The plants' should be watered two or three 

 times a week when the season is dry till they 

 have taken root ; and it will be necessary to stake 

 the Antwerp, and other strong-growing sorts, 

 with stout stakes, running a couple of small rails 



at top to tie the branches to, which will prevent 

 their being broken by the wind, or beaten down 

 by the rain. The Early White and smaller sorts 

 may be plaited together at top, tying them round 

 with the small yellow willow, which will keep 

 them together. Some of the Early Raspberries 

 may, he says, be planted between the trees on a 

 west aspect, to produce early fruit before those 

 in the quarters come in. The Antwerp, thrive 

 exceedingly well against north walls or palings, 

 and produces late crops. Such as are planted 

 against walls or palings should be tacked to 

 them, to keep them in their places. 



It is advised that where any of the small red 

 and white sorts are found they should be de- 

 stroyed, planting the Large Red, the Smooth 

 Cane Double-bearing, the Large Red and White 

 Anlwerps, the Large common White, the Dou- 

 ble-bearing White, and Woodward's New Rasp- 

 berry in their stead. In respect to the cutting or 

 pruning of these plants, some, Mr. Forsyth says, 

 prefer pruning them in autumn, a practice of 

 which he by no means approves of. As they 

 bear the fruit on the wood of the preceding year, 

 they are, he thinks, very liable to be killed hy 

 the frost in severe winters ; but, by deferring the 

 pruning till the month of February, there will be a 

 great choice of fine wood for bearing the follow- 

 ing summer, being careful to root out or cut 

 down all the wood that bore fruit the preceding 

 year, which generally dies, selecting only from 

 five to seven of the most vigorous and strong 

 shoots from the last year's wood to bear fruit 

 the ensuing season. These shoots may, he 

 says, be pruned to the length of three or four 

 feet, aceording to their strength, when they 

 are of the Smooth Cane Double-bearing sort 

 (which generally bears a second crop in autumn, 

 and will in fine seasons continue bearing from 

 June to November) ; but, if the Large Antwerp, 

 the shoots should be left five or six feet long in 

 these prunings. 



In regard to the Early White, which never 

 grows so strong as the above sorts, it should, 

 he says, be shortened to two feet and a half, or 

 three feet. These should be planted in rows 

 about three feet distant from each other, and 

 two feet from plant to plant in the rows ; always 

 remembering to keep them clear of suckers, and 

 to cut out the dead or last year's wood, as 

 above; making choice of the strongest shoots 

 for bearing wood. Great care should, however, 

 be taken not to cut off" the little spurs on the 

 sides, which bear the fruit in this kind. 



Plants of this sort continue in bearing five or 

 6ix years ; by which time a fresh plantation 

 should be in readiness to succeed them. The 

 young plants often bear some fruit the first year, 



