B OR 



B OR 



To obtain seed. — To save seed, some 

 of those plants which have survived the 

 winter must be left ungatliered from. 

 Tliey will begin to flower about June ; 

 and when their seed is perfectly ripe, 

 the stalks must be gathered, and dried 

 completely before it is rubbed out. 



BORAGO. Six species. Hardy. Di- 

 vision or seed. Common soil. 



BORASSUS flahellifnrmis. Stove 

 palm. Seed. Loam and peat. 



BORBONIA. Nine species. Green- 

 house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat 

 and loam. 



BORDER, is a name applied to that 

 narrow division of the garden which 

 usually accompanies each side of a 

 walk in the pleasure-grounds, and to 

 the narrow bed which is close to the 

 garden wall on one side, and abuts on a 

 walk on the other. The walls being 

 mostly occupied by fruit trees, the lat- 

 ter may be considered as the fruit-bor- 

 ders, and the first-named as the flower- 

 borders. 



1. Fruit-bordeis. — Next to the wall 

 should be a path three feet wide, fori 

 the convenience of pruning and gather- 

 ing. Next to this path should be the 

 border, eight or nine feet wide; and 

 then the broad walk, which should al- 

 ways encompass the main compart- 

 ments ofthe kitchen garden. The whole 

 of the breadth from the wall to the edge 

 of this main walk should be excavated 

 to the depth of four feet ; the bottom of 

 the excavation rammed hard ; brickbats 

 and large stones then put in to the depth 

 of one foot and a half; and the remain- 

 ing two feet and a half filled up with 

 suitable soil. From the underdrainage 

 of brickbats, &c., draining pipes should 

 be laid, with an outfall into some neigh- 

 boring ditch. No fruit tree will be 

 healthy if it roots deep, or if its roots 

 are surrounded by superfluous water — 

 that is, more water than the soil will 

 retain by its own chemical and capil- 

 lary attractions. Shallow rooting crops 

 do no harm to the trees grown on fruit 

 borders sufficient to require their total 

 banishment. 



2. Flower borders. — These, like the 

 preceding, and indeed like every other 

 part ofthe garden not devoted to aqua- 

 tic and marsh plants, should be well 

 drained. In plotting them it must also 

 be remembered, that if narrow, no art 

 will impart to them an aspect of bold- 

 ness and grandeur. Indeed narrowness 



of surface is inseparably connected with 

 an impression that the grounds are of 

 limited extent, and no disposal of the 

 plants will remove the littleness thus 

 suggested. If the pleasure grounds are 

 small, narrow borders are permissible, 

 but even then the broader they are the 

 less is the appearance of meanness. 

 Neatness must be the presiding deity 

 over flower borders, and no application 

 ofthe hoe and rake, no removal of de- 

 cayed leaves, no tying up of straggling 

 members, can be too unremitting. 



For the arrangement of the plants, 

 see Flowers; and for particular culti- 

 vation, each will be found under the 

 name ofthe plant. 



BORECOLE, Brassica olerarea fim- 

 briata. 



Varieties. — Of the following, 1, 2, 3. 

 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 16, are the 

 best. 



1. Brussels Borecole, or Sprouts. 



2. Green Borecole, Brassica oleracea 

 selenisia. 



3. Purple Borecole, B. oleracea laci- 

 niata. 



4. Variegated Borecole. 



5. German or Curled Kale, or Cur- 

 lies. 



[ 6. Scotch or Siberian Kale, B. o. 

 ' sabdlica. 



7. Chou de Milan. 



8. Egyptian or Rabi Kale. 



9. Ragged Jack. 



I 10. Jerusalem Kale. 



11. Buda-Russian, or Manchester 

 Kale. 



12. Anjou Kale. 



13. One-thousand-headed cabbage. 



14. Palm Borecole. 



15. Portugal or large ribbed. 



16. Woburn perennial. 



j Woburn kale may be propagated by 

 cuttings, six inches long, planted where 

 to remain in March or April. 



Buda kale is greatly improved by 

 blanching under a pot, like sea kale. 



Sowing. — The first crop sow about 

 j the end of March, or early in April, the 

 seedlings of which are fit for pricking 

 out towards the end of April, and for 

 final planting at the close of May, for 

 production late in autumn and com- 

 mencement of winter. The sowing 

 must be repeated about the middle of 

 May; for final planting, during July, 

 and lastly in August, for use during 

 winter and early spring. 



Pricking out, — Their fitness for 



