CIN 



150 



CIR 



covered with a bell glass ; or if there 

 be enough, they may be placed a dozen 

 or two in a large pan, and a glass that 

 will fit inside the rim, covered over 

 them. They must never be allowed to 

 dry. The glasses should be occasion- 

 ally wiped dry inside. Whether there 

 be one cutting or a dozen, they should 

 be so placed that the glass can be 

 pressed into the sand to keep out the 

 air until they have all struck. 



" They can always be watered with- 

 out disturbing the glass, if it be pro- 

 perly placed inside the rim, because by 

 watering over the glass, the whole can 

 be soaked ; but the drainage must be 

 good, or they will rot. 



" If you happen to have a declining 

 hot-bed in which there remains a little 

 bottom heat, the pan or pots maybe 

 placed therein. It will rather hasten 

 the striking. Those side-shoots which 

 have roots to them may be immediately 

 potted into sixty-sized pots, and treated 

 the same as seedlings just potted off. 

 In a few weeks the cuttings will have 

 struck, which will be indicated by their 

 beginning to grow ; they may be potted 

 oft' also, as seedlings are potted, in 

 sixty-sized pots. Here the treatment 

 is just the same as that directed for 

 seedlings." — Hort. Mag. 



After-Culture. — "About the first 

 week in June, the plants being removed 

 from the green-house, and turned out 

 of their pots, the old earth shaken from 

 their roots, plant rather deeply, and 

 about eighteen inches apart in light 

 rich soil in the open garden, and water 

 as often as they seem to require it. 

 By the end of July, they throw up 

 myriads of suckers; they are then taken 

 up and parted, preserving ihe smallest 

 atom that has a root to it. The largest 

 plants are potted in pots proportionate 

 to their size, in a compost consisting of 

 leaf mould, rotten dung, and strong 

 turfy loam, in about equal quantities, 

 and placed in a shady situation. These 

 will flower in September and October, 

 and will do well either for the house, 

 or for filling up beds, or vacancies in 

 the flower garden. The other plants 

 are replanted in the open garden, wa- 

 tered, and shaded until established, 

 taken up with balls, and potted about 

 the end of October, and protected from 

 frost in a cold frame or pit through the 

 winter. In this manner, and by keep- 

 ing plants of various sizes, a regular 



supply of flowers maybe Iftid from Sep- 

 tember to the end of June. Single 

 plants in thirty-two or twenty-four-sized 

 pots are large enough. No plants suf- 

 fer so much from being crowded toge- 

 ther ; indeed, when short of room it is 

 better to throw away a few plants than 

 have the whole cramped for room." — 

 Gard. Chron. 



Winter-blooming. — ''• When the cine- 

 rarias have done flowering, cut off" all 

 the flower-stems and old leaves, and 

 place them in a cold pit or frame, which 

 must be kept rather close for two or 

 three weeks to cause the plants to grow; 

 afterwards admit air freely by day, but 

 keep them close at night ; then about 

 the beginning of August divide the old 

 plants into pieces, and put them into 

 small pots filled with a mixture of good 

 loam and sandy peat, to which may be 

 added a small portion of well-rotted 

 dung. When potted, return them to 

 the pit or frame, and keep them close; 

 afterwards, as they grow, shift them 

 into larger pots, and use a little manure- 

 water ; and finally, as the danger of 

 frost approaches, remove them to the 

 green-house, where they will bloom well 

 all the winter and spring, if kept free 

 from insects." — Gard. Chron. 



CINNAMOMUM. Cinnamon. Ele- 

 ven species. Stove evergreen trees. 

 Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. 



CINNAMON. Cinnamomum. 



CION. See Scion. 



CIRCiEA. Three species. Hardy 

 herbaceous perennials. Offsets. Com- 

 mon soil. 



CIRCUMPOSITION differs from lay- 

 ering, only that in this the shoot to be 

 rooted is bent down to the soil, whilst 

 in circumposition the soil is placed in 

 a vessel and raised to the shoot. There 

 are pots called layering pots made for 

 this practice, and diftering from the 

 common garden pot, only by having a 

 section about an inch broad cut through 

 one side, and to the centre of the bot- 

 tom, for the admission of the shoot or 

 branch. 



M. Foulup employs " small tin cases 

 of a conical form, like the upper part 

 of a funnel, two and three-quarter 

 inches in length, and two and a sixth 

 inches in width at top, narrowing to- 

 wards the lower part till only sufficient 

 room is left for the introduction of the 

 shoot or branch intended to be propa- 

 gated. These cones are supported on 



