R AS 



49S 



RED 



then ready for planting : having previ- [ Mr. Mearns recommends, "in May 

 ously to this chosen an open spot of! the removal of the young fruit-bearing 

 good ground and trenched it, put in the ! shoots from the canes, leaving in some 

 plants as soon as possible, in rows a I cases one or two eyes, in others cutting 

 yard and a half apart, and a yard asun- them clean off. Under either plan they 

 der in the rows. If planted closer the I soon show an abundance of vigorous 

 plants, producing numerous suckers in ' shoots, frequently three or four from 

 summer, grow so close as to exclude each eye, which produce plenty of blos- 

 the due influence of sun and air from soms in the beginning of Julv, and on 

 the fruit, as well as render it trouble- ^ these a good crop of fine raspberries is 

 some to gather the produce. If the ! borne in August." — Hort. Trans. 



planting is performed late in the spring, 

 give a good watering, and repeat it oc- 

 casionally till the plants have struck 

 fresh root. 



After-Culture. — Keep them clean 

 from weeds all summer by broad hoe- 

 ins, giving an annual dressing in au- 



Training. — The earliest and finest 

 are obtained from canes planted beneath 

 a south wall, and trained against it in 

 this form. (Fig. 143.) But in the open 

 ground the best mode of training is 

 round small hoops, thus. (Fig. 144.) 

 The worst form is plaiting the canes 



tumn, cutting down the decayed stems j together; and training in arches or other 



that bore the preceding summer. Thin 

 the young succession bearers; clear 

 away all intermediate suckers between 

 those of the main stocks ; and then 

 point with a fork the ground betvveen 

 the rows. 



Previous to the above-mentioned an- 

 nual dressing of raspberries, observe 

 that, as they produce a fresh supply of 

 shoots or suckers every year for bear- 

 ing the next, therefore the annual dress- 

 ing be performed anytime from October 

 till March. First proceed to clear out 

 all the decayed stems, being last sum- 

 mer's bearers, breaking them down 

 close to the bottom ; then examine the 

 supply of young shoots for next year's 

 bearing. In March select three or four 

 of the strongest shoots on each stool, 

 cutting all the others away close to the 

 ground ; shorten those left according 

 to their strength, cutting them genera 



compact forms, excluding the light and 

 warmth of the sun, is little better. 



Forcing. — Raspberries may be forced 

 growing either in pots or in the borders 

 of the house. They may be also plant- 

 ed on the outside of a pit, the bearing 

 canes being introduced withinside and 

 ly a little below the bend, at the top of, trained to a trellis, whilst the present 



the shoots, to about three or four feet ^ year's^shoots are left outside. 

 in length, both to render them more 

 robust, to support themselves more 

 firmly upright in summer, and to pro- 

 mote a stronger supply of laterals for 

 flowering and fruiting. Allow them a 

 little rotten dung or leaf-mould once 

 every other year, applying it in the 

 spring. Make a plantation every four 



or five years in a fresh spot of ground ; evergreen shrubs or trees 

 as, after that period of time, the plants, ' Loam, peat, and sand, 

 although they may continue shooting ^ 



with tolerable vigour, yet are apt to be 

 less fruitful, and the fruit smaller, than 

 in younger plantations in fresh ground. 

 — Abercrombie. 



Autumn Crop. — To obtain of the 

 Antwerp, and other large varieties. 



RATABIDA columnaris, and its va- 

 riety. Hardy herbaceous perennials. 

 Division or seeds. Common soil. 



RATTLESNAKE FERN. Botrichium 

 virginicum. 



RATTLESNAKE ROOT. Folygala 

 senega. 



RAUWOLFIA. Four species. Stove 

 Cuttings. 



REAUMURIA. Two species. Half- 

 hardy evergreen shrubs. Young cut- 

 tings. Loam, peat, and sand. 



RED BAY. Laurus carolinensis. 



RED CEDAR. Juniper us virgiriiana. 



RED GUM TREE. Eucalyptus re- 

 sinifera. 



