184 THE CHEKRY. 



mltted to get dry, but immediately when gathered, rubbed and 

 washed clean of pulp, and mixed half and half with sand, placed in 

 boxes of, say, four inches deep, having holes in the bottom for drain- 

 age, and then set in the open air, on the north side of a building, 

 clear of direct sunlight. The ground should be well drained, and, 

 if possible, fresh turf, and spaded or plowed in the fall one foot 

 deep. As soon as the frost is out in the spring, rake down the 

 ground level, mark out drills six inches wide and one inch deep, sow 

 seed so that it will be about three inches apart, cover with the soil 

 one inch, and add one inch of sand or leaf mould. 



By Budding. — This is done as described on page 22 ; but in the 

 Cherry, and especially when the buds are a little unripe, it is best in 

 cutting the bud from the scion to take liberally of the wood, thereby 

 preventing its drying as soon as otherwise. The season for budding 

 the Cherry is, when the tree on which you are going to operate is 

 forming its terminal bud, and varies in seasons, as also in the age of 

 the trees ; trees of four or five years old, in sections south of Cin- 

 cinnati, being ready by middle of June, while plants transplanted 

 the past spring will not be ready until early in July. North of this 

 section line, the season will vary from two to four weeks later. Oc- 

 casionally it will answer to bud in September, as it sometimes hap- 

 pens that a second growth is made about that time. 



By Grafting. — This should be performed in all sections south of 

 Cincinnati early in February, and for those north, from the last week 

 in February to middle of March. Saddle grafting is best where 

 both stock and scion are equal in size ; whip or tongue grafting is 

 best where the stock is not over half to three-fourths inch diameter ; 

 and cleft grafting, where large stocks are to be changed. This last is 

 dangerous, inasmuch as it gives too great a check to th^ tree ; it is 

 better to graft the small limbs and branches. Side grafting is the 

 mode most advisable for young beginners, and also where the work 



has been put off a little too late. 



»■ 



By Roots. — The root of the mazard Cherry, cut into pieces of 

 about four to six inches long, and having the upper end set about 

 one inch under ground early in spring, will often throw up strong 

 shoots, and where a person is unable to get seedlings, this is the next 

 best mode of obtaining stocks, as they are no more liable to sucker 

 than if from seed. 



Transplanting. — When, from the seed bed to the nursery row, it 

 should be done in the fall on dry soils, and early in spring on soils 

 not perfectly dry in winter. They should be set in rows four feet 

 apart, and one foot apart in the row, and the plants should have one 

 half of last year's growth cut off, and all long, straggling, as well aa 



