186 THE CHERRY. 



together about the roots, an application, on prairie soils, of sulphur, 

 and finely broken or ground bones be made, the ground work to 

 success will be perfbrined. 



Situations sloping south will affect the producing of early bloom, 

 rendering less chance of fruit from effect of late vernal frosts, and, 

 also, render the tree more liable to second growth in the fall, and 

 thus, unfit it for the severe changes of temperature throughout winter. 

 Northern exposures are recommended, but, an eastern one we regard 

 best. The forenoon sun may excite circulation, but not as rapidly 

 as the mid-day, or from one to three o'clock, p. m. ; while there is, 

 also, more or less of moisture in a morning atmosphere, and none 

 in the afternoon ; the tree, also, has a chance to have its circulation 

 gradually checked ere the cold of night, which it has not when 

 planted on ground sloping south, west, or north. When planting on 

 either of the last exposures, or on level land, let your tree slope to 

 the south-west, as the sun has less effect upon it in that position. 



Cultivation. In nursery rows, the earth, in spring, should be first 

 turned away from the trees ; in about ten days, it should again be 

 stirred and left nearly level, and so kept throughout the growing 

 season. In October, it should be turned up toward the trees. The 

 plants budded last season, should be cut back to within six inches 

 of the bud, as soon as the same commences to swell strongly. The 

 buds, after having grown six to eight inches, should be tied up to the 

 stocks, and, in June, the stock should be cut with a slope downward, 

 close to the bud. The second year, they should be headed back to 

 four feet, when some will throw out branches two feet from the 

 ground ; others, where headed back. The third year, they should 

 be transplanted. Throughout the West, on the rich prairie soils, it 

 has been found impolitic to hoe, or otherwise use any mode of cul- 

 ture toward keeping the ground clean, after August ; it induces sec- 

 ond growth, immature ripening of wood, and consequent injury in 

 winter. Orchard and garden trees should be lightly spaded around 

 in July, and a quantity of mulch, or stones, laid over the roots. 



Pruning and Training. The Heart Cherry, as a standard, needs 

 little pruning, except to cut away limbs liable to cross one another. 

 This is best done in July, when the cut, if made smooth, and close 

 to the body or large limb, will at once heal. If disposed to grow 

 too rapidly, dig around a tree, of, say, four inches diameter, a circu- 

 lar trench, three feet distant from the body of the tree, and two feet 

 deep, cutting off with a sharp spade, every root and tibre outside 

 that space. And, for every inch diameter, up to a- tree twelve 

 inches through, add four inches distance of trench from tree. Often, 

 the top of the tree will also require pruning, so as to give it a round 

 head, as of an acorn, based on the circle of the trench. 



