592 PRACTICE OF GARDENING. Part III. 



face of the level earth, or with only the lower ends of the roots a little inserted : place 

 more against these in the same manner, as close together as possible, and extending to 

 the width of the frame : add successive ranges, as close as they can be set, with the 

 crowns of an equal height." Where the bed is completely planted, the crowns are to be 

 earthed over regularly. Some, as Abercrombie, cover with two inches of light earth, 

 adding, when the buds appear, three or four inches of additional earthing ; others, as 

 Nicol and M'Phail, cover at once with four or five inches, adding no more afterwards. 

 The planting completed, the next thing is to put on the lights, which are to be kept close 

 shut down till the heat begin to rise in the frame ; which will generally happen the se- 

 cond or third day, when air is to be admitted, in order to pass oft' the steam, and dry the 

 surface of the mould. Air must be given every good day till the buds begin to appear 

 above ground ; and then more freely admitted to give color and flavor. 



3362. Produce in hot-beds. Nicol says, " An ordinary-sized three-light frame, com- 

 pletely filled with roots, and properly managed, will only yield a dish every day for about 

 three weeks." 



3363. Successional supplies frojn hot-beds. On the above estimate, if a constant suc- 

 cession of asparagus be required, it will be necessary to make up a bed every eighteen 

 or twenty days till the middle or end of March. Each successive bed may be made a 

 little lighter; and less trouble will be required as the season advances. (Kal. 347.) 



3364. Forcing the roots as they stand in the open ground. Stir the surface of any bed 



or beds in full bearing in the general plantation ; then, having raked it fine as in the 



usual spring dressing, cover three inches with the siftings of old tan, and on that lay a 



layer of fermenting dung, as in forcing rhubarb or sea-kale. This mode has been but 



seldom practised ; but we consider it likely to succeed to a certain extent. 



3365. Melross " finds, that asparagus may be forced in a vinery, by planting the roots in the border, 

 behind the flue, where no vine roots are." (Caled. Hort. Mem. iii. 164.) 



3366. Sea-kale and rhubarb may be, and sometimes are, forced in the same manner as 

 asparagus ; but the most general mode is to excite them where they stand in the open 

 garden, by the application of warm dung, with or without earth in pots, or other covers. 

 (See the Horticultural Catalogue.) 



Sect. X. Forcing Kidneybeans. 



3367. The fcidneybean may be successfidly forced in pits, hot-houses or forcing-houses, 

 and hot-beds. The more general mode is to force in the pine -stoves; the same heat 

 which suits the pine-apple, suiting the kidneybean, which is a native of India. Nicol 

 prefers a flued pit, such as that used for nursing pines : and Abercrombie says, 

 " Where there are no hot-houses, or where kidneybeans are to be raised in quantities for 

 the market, the most economical and successful mode will be found a flued pit, prepared 

 as directed for asparagus, but with a stronger bottom heat." 



3368. Soil. All agree in recommending light vegetable earth. 



3369. Sorts. Abercrombie recommends the early speckled, early negro, and dun- 

 colored dwarfs. Nicol says the speckled dwarf is the best sort. 



3370. Sowing. Sow in flat boxes or pans of fine light earth thickly, and cover to 

 the depth of an inch. Let them be placed in a stove or hot-bed, and have moderate 

 supplies of water, and they will be fit to plant when about three inches in height. 

 Plant them in rows across the bed of the pit fifteen inches apart, and three inches distant 

 in the line. 



3371. Culture. Water after planting, and afterwards, as required; give abundance of 

 air every fine day, and earth up the plants as they advance in growth in order to give 

 them strength. 



3372. Time of beginning to force. M'Phail says, "If you wish to endeavor to have 

 kidneybeans green all the year, you should plant the seeds, and begin to force in 

 August." Abercrombie observes, " Some forcers, quite in opposition to the season, 

 raise kidneybeans in August, and thence till the 21st December, which day may be 

 regarded as the boundary between late and early forcing.' 1 



3373. Temperature. The heat by fire in the night need not exceed 50°, according to 

 Nicol ; but Abercrombie recommends 60° for a minimum, and 75° for a maximum. 



3374. Successional supplies are to be obtained by sowing every month or six weeks, for 

 which purpose the pits may be divided by temporary partitions, as recommended under 

 Forcing Asparagus. (Sect. IX.) 



3375. Forcing in hot-houses. " The most early fruit in perfection," says Abercrombie, 

 " is obtained by culture in a stove, sowing from midwinter till the end of March." 

 Sow in pots, or oblong boxes, containing a mixture of light fresh earth and vegetable 

 mould, depositing the seeds either in a triangular or quincunx order, and full an inch 

 deep. If the plants are to fruit where sown, the cradles should be ten inches deep ; but, 

 if they are to be transplanted, which admits a greater number in the same space, the seed- 

 pots or boxes may be shallow. Do not fill the cradles with mould at first, to allow of 



