H56 



PRACTICE OF GARDENING. 



Part III. 



Pink bizarres are so called when 





let predominates, and is united with a paler color, or, as it sometimes happens, with a very deep purple 

 upon a white ground, it constitutes a scarlet bizarre, of which there are many shades and varieties, some 

 richer and others paler in their colors, as is the case with all the rest. ' 

 the pink abounds ; purple bizarres, when the purple abounds ; 

 crimson bizarres consist of a deep purple and rich pink When 

 the pink flake is very high in color, it is distinguished by the 

 appellation of rose flake; but some there are so nearly in the 

 medium betwixt a pink and scarlet, that it can scarcely be de- 

 fined to which class they belong. In addition to the foregoing 

 varieties, there is a sort held in great esteem by cultivators, 

 called picotee (Jig. 611. a) ; many of which are very beautiful, 

 and being hardier than the other sorts, are in considerable re- 

 quest. The colors are principally yellow, and white spotted ; 

 their properties are the same as the other kinds, except that 

 the edges of the petals are serrated or jagged, and the color is 

 disposed in spots, where the others are striped. It is propa- 

 gated in the same manner as the others." 



6409. Propagation. By layers and pipings for continuing 

 approved sorts, and bv seed for procuring new varieties. 



6410. By layers. The time for performing this operation is 

 when the plants are in full bloom ; some defer it till the flowers 

 are on the decline ; but in that case the new plants are not so 

 well rooted as those laved earlier, and consequently less able to 

 stand the winter. Laying, by the wounds it inflicts, consider- 

 ably impairs the bloom, and generally kills the parent plant. 

 The practical part of the operation has nothing extraordinary 

 in it ; a sufficient quantitv of pegs [Jig. 612. a) and of com- 

 post being provided, the pot containing the plant to be laid is placed on a table, and the layers prepared 

 by cutting off their lower leaves (b) ; the earth is then stirred, and the pot filled up with " light rich mould, 

 not of too fine a grain." (Haddock-) The incision is made by entering a quarter of an inch below the 

 joint, and passing the knife up through the centre of it ; it is then to be pegged down, and buried not more 

 than half an inch deep. " It is advisable," Maddock says, " to peg down the layers in a dry state, being 

 then less brittle, and consequently not so liable to break off as when they are wet and succulent ; there- 

 fore, as soon as the lavers are dressed, the pot should be placed full in the sun for half an hour, in order 

 to render them more "flaccid and pliant than they otherwise would be. When the layers are properly 

 rooted, which will be the case with moist sorts in about three weeks or a month after laying, provided due 

 care be taken to keep them regularly moist, and to shade them from the heat of the meridian sun, they 

 are then to be cut off from the old plant, with about half an inch of the stalk which connects them with 

 it, and be immediately planted in small pots, three or four plants in each, placed round the sides. The 

 pots are to be placed under an arch of hoops, where they can be covered with mats, in case of excessive 

 rains, till the severitv of the weather renders it necessary' to remove them into their winter repository, 

 which is to be constructed in the same manner, and have the same aspect, as that described for auriculas." 

 (Florist's Directory, 196.) 



6411. Hogg commences laying when the flowers are sufficiently expanded to show which are in color, or 

 true to their kinds, and which not : this he finds to be about the 21st of July, and he continues laying from 

 that time to the 21st of August. The plants receive a good watering the day previous to laying, because 

 they can receive it only for some time after through the fine rose of the watering-pot, on account of pre- 

 serving the earth on the laved shoots. In performing the operation, he cuts off the nib or extreme end of 

 the tongue, or talus, immediately below the joint, because, " if left on, it is apt to decay," and prevent 

 the protrusion of that granulous matter from which the fibres proceed. Under favorable circumstances 

 they will be fit to take off in seven or eight weeks, and may then be planted two or three in a small pot 

 (No. 48.), three inches in diameter, by" four inches deep. The pots are to be set on tiles, slates, or 

 boards, there to remain till the middle "or end of October, when they are to be removed to their winter 

 quarters. ( Treatise, &c. 56.) 



6412. By pipings. This mode of propagating the carnation is very precarious. Maddock says, " five 

 thousand plants were piped one season, of which not more than one hundred perished ; whereas more than 

 two thousand were lost of the same number the year following, with but very little variation in the ma- 

 nagement ; nevertheless, some sorts succeed much better by piping than laying, and make healthier plants : 

 it requires attention and experience to distinguish such sorts from the rest." Piping, however, is often a 

 necessary resource where the shoots are too short for laying, or where in laying, shoots are broken by 

 accident. 



6413. The first thins is to provide a slight hot-bed, and cover it four or five inches thick with fine light 

 mould, laid very regular and even. The cuttings intended to be piped are to have two complete joints, 

 that is to sav, they are to be cut off horizontally close under the second joint : the extremities or points of 

 the leaves are likewise to be shortened, as for laying, which will leave the whole length of the piping from 

 one inch and a half to two inches, according to its strength (fig. 612. c) : as soon as thus prepared, it may 

 be thrown into a basin of soft water for a few minutes, to plump it up. The earth on the bed where the 

 pipings are to be placed should be moderately moistened, and rendered rather compact than otherwise 

 then take a small hand-glass, and with it make an impres- 

 sion neatly on the surface of the soil, in order to know 

 where to stick in the pipings, so as to lose no room, or en- 

 danger their being disturbed when the glass is placed over 

 them. The pipings are then to be taken out of the basin 

 singly, and forced into the earth, in their wet state, with a 

 steady hand ; but not more than half an inch deep. When 

 a sufficient number for the glass are thus placed regularly, 

 at equal distances from each other, and rather more than 

 an inch within the mark described by the glass, on every 

 side, they are to be very gently watered, in order that the 

 earth may adhere more closely to them, and thereby keep 

 out the air ; after this watering, they are to remain open, 

 but not exposed to a hot sun, till their leaves become per- 

 fectly dry, after which the glass is to be placed over them 

 carefully, on the same mark that was made by it upon the 

 surface of the soil, before the pipings were placed there. 

 The bottom edges of the glass are to be forced a little into 

 the earth, to prevent the admission of too much air, which 

 so far finishes the operation. What further remains to be 

 done is to attend diligently to their management, with re- 

 spect to sun and air, &c. 



6414. The soil ought to be kept regularly moist, till they 

 have formed their fibres ; but too much moisture is as pre- 

 judicial as too little, and whenever they are watered, the 

 glasses are never to be replaced over them till their leaves 



