PRUNING. 



237 



can be done so much more quickly, that they are generally 

 preferred, and for rampant growing bushes will answer ; 

 but upon fruit trees, and choice plants generally, the knife 

 is much better. The cut should be made just at a joint, 

 but not so far above it as to leave a stub, as in figure 67, 

 which will die back to the bud, there being nothing to 

 contribute to its growth ; nor should it be made so close 

 to the bud as to endanger it, as in figure ijQ. The cut 

 should start just opposite the lower part of the bud and 

 end just above its top, as in figure 68. For the removal 

 of branches too large to cut witli the knife, as must some- 

 times be done on neglected trees, a saw is required. Saws 

 are made especially for the 

 purpose, but any narrow 

 one with the teeth set wide 

 will answer. The rough 

 cut left by the saw should 

 be pared smooth, and if an 

 inch or more in diameter, 

 the wound should be cov- 

 ered. Ordinary paint, melt- 

 ed grafting wax, or shellac 

 varnish will answer to pro- 

 tect the bare wood from air 

 and moisture, and prevent 

 decay. In pruning it is 

 well to remember that the 

 future shape of the tree 

 will be materially affected 

 by the position upon the branch of the bud to which the 

 cut is made. The upper bud left on the branch will con- 

 tinue the growth, and the new shoot will be in the direc- 

 tion of that bud. If a young tree is, as in, figure 69, to have 

 all its branches shortened, and each is cut to a bud. A, 

 pointing towards the center of the tree, the tendency of 

 the new growth will all be inward, as in figure 70; while 



Fig. 69. Fig. 70. Fig. 71. 



PRUNING FOB SHAPE. 



