HARDY GRAPES. 



243 



vine than the blood flowing from a pin scratch would 

 weaken a healthy man. This method of covering up the 

 grape-vine is not commonly practised, but we are satis- 

 fied that in exposed positions it is well worth the 

 trouble. I have practised it witli vines now over 

 twenty years old, embracing some twenty varieties. My 

 soil is a stiff clay, very unsuitable for the Grape ; yet 

 these vines have kept clear of mildew when my neigh- 

 bor's vines, a few hundred yards off, have been seriously 

 injured by it. I have long believed that intense cold, 

 long continued, is hurtful to even such plants as we call 

 hardy, and the wonderful vigor of these old vines, so 

 treated, seems a good evidence of it. The litter used in 

 covering (which has become well-rotted by spring) is 

 spread over the border, acting both as a summer mulch 

 and fertilizer. 



Mildew is the worst enemy to the vine. The same 

 i-emedy we recommend in this book for mildew 

 on Roses will be found equally efficacious for 

 the Grape. On a large scale, dry sulphur is 

 used, blown upon the vines by a bellows made 

 for the purpose. 



Propagation of the Grape is done by nur- 

 serymen in greenhouses similar to that used 

 for propagating florists' plants ; but most of 

 the varieties can be grown with fair success by 

 cuttings in the open air. The cuttings (made 

 from the young, well-ripened shoots of the pre- 

 vious year's growth) may be made with two 

 (figure 76) or three buds or eyes, planted in 

 rows, say one foot apart and three inches be- 

 tween the cuttings, and set so that the top eye 

 or bud only is above ground. The situation 

 where the cuttings are placed should be well 

 exposed to the sun, the soil rich and deep, and of sandy 

 or light character. Care must be taken that the cutfin^ 



m 



Fig. 76. 



CUTTING. 



