242 Landscape Gardening 



4 to 6 inches deep, and if the soil is not too thin and dry 

 a good growth and an abundance of blossoms will result. 



Pruning. — In pruning the work may be done either in 

 the fall or in March, the latter time being generally pre- 

 ferred. In this work the bushes should be so pruned as to 

 obtain a Hmited number of the strongest canes possible. 

 The stronger the canes the larger will be the flowers. All 

 weak shoots should be either severely cut back or entirely 

 removed and the strong canes headed back one-half or two- 

 thirds, varying the treatment somewhat with the variety 

 and the size and number of flowers required; some varie- 

 ties, especially the very strong growing ones, needing less 

 pruning than others, but with all varieties the smaller the 

 number of shoots the larger will be the flowers. 



The climbing, briar and moss roses should not be pruned 

 except to take out old or weak canes and to remove the dead 

 tips of shoots. 



Winter Protection.— Banking up against the collar of 

 the bushes a foot or more with soil or manure should be 

 practised with all outdoor roses, and most of them will be 

 much benefited by tying up in coarse rye-straw or mats. 

 Pine boughs set up closely about them for the winter will 

 improve the quality of the blossoms very greatly. 



Varieties.— We may divide the varieties most commonly 

 grown into bedding roses, briar roses and climbing roses. 

 In the first group we would include the hybrid perpetual, 

 hybrid tea, tea and dwarf polyantha roses. The briars in- 

 clude the rugosas, rugosa hybrids, and Persian and Austrian 

 roses. The climbers include many climbing varieties of the 

 classes enumerated under group one, as well as the natural 

 climbers. 



Bedding Roses: Hybrid Perpetuals, Fig. 136.— Ameri- 

 can Beauty, Alfred Colomb, Anne de Diesbach, Baroness 

 Rothschild, Captain Hayward, Clio, Frau Karl Druschki, 



