1 66 The Landscape Gardening Book 



but evergreens recover from the operation best when it is done 

 in August or early September. 



The pruning of deciduous trees at the time of planting is 

 governed entirely by the necessity for keeping the balance 

 between root and branch, with the advantage on the root side, 

 if on either. If one-third of the root system is lost or injured 

 in taking a plant from the grovmd, one-third of its top must 

 be sacrificed when it is put back. Ordinarily all limbs and 

 branches may be shortened equally, but on trees like the Lom- 

 bardy poplar, the single definite "leader" should not be cut. 

 This carries the tree up into its characteristic spire-like form, 

 and any interference with it will impair the growth sufficiently 

 to be a detriment to that form, in all likelihood. Shorten the 

 branches only, on such a tree. 



All roots that are broken or wounded must be removed with 

 a sharp, even cut, before replanting. All top pruning should 

 of course be done while the tree is lying on the ground and the 

 top within easy reach. Cut just above a bud always — prefer- 

 ably a bud turning away from the bole of the tree, which is 

 called an outside bud— and cut on a downward slant so that 

 the raw end may shed water readily. 



In removing an entire branch from a tree, at any time and for 

 any purpose, always cut as close as possible to the branch or 

 trunk from which the branch to be removed rises; and always 

 cut parallel with that branch or trunk. Never take off a branch 

 by cutting across its axis at right angles to it, and at some 

 distance from the trunk, as so often is done. This leaves a stub 

 over which the bark cannot possibly grow and it will ultimately 

 die and carry decay to the heart of the tree. The close, parallel 

 cut, on the contrary, heals completely, for the bark has only to 

 draw together and cover the flat surface of the wound. 



