1 68 The Landscape Gardening Book 



In other words every plant should go into the ground exactly as 

 it grows — exactly as it came out of it, as nearly as is possible. 

 A long round stick — a broom handle, top down, is ideal — 

 should be used to tap the loose earth down among, and under, 

 and around all the fine roots, as it is thrown onto them, after 

 placing the specimen. It should be closely packed aroiond every 

 rootlet, so they may begin drawing their moisture-food from it at 

 once. This does not mean, however, that it requires beating 

 down to stony hardness. 



A little water in the bottom of the excavation at the beginning 

 is very good, but guard against using too much, as it is likely to 

 cake mud around the small roots and strangle them. Pour on 

 half a pailful of water when the hole is partly filled in and let it 

 settle completely into the ground before finishing the work. 

 This may take some little time, but give it as long as necessary. 

 It works the earth against the roots as no amoimt of tamping 

 can — and when it has finally disappeared and the rest of the loose 

 dirt is thrown in and firmed by tramping, you may feel sure that 

 every root is pretty comfortably fixed. 



Mulching is essential for all autumn-planted things, and herein 

 lies the secret of failure when autumn planting fails, invariably. 

 The heavy winter mulch must never be applied until the ground 

 has frozen; and then it must be applied at once, six to ten inches 

 deep. The object of it is to hold the cold in by holding the 

 warmth out, and save the killing alternation of frost and thaw. 

 Remove it in the spring when danger of deep freezing is past. 



Pruning of trees other than the shortening done at planting 

 time, should be done just as the sap starts in the spring. With 

 flowering shrubs it is usually better to wait until just after they 

 have finished flowering, for many bear their blossoms on wood 

 of the previous season's growth. If this were cut away all the 



