CHAP, xr VILLA GARDENING 65 



spade, deep enough to receive the cuttings ; then jiress them into 

 the nick until they rest on the firm bottom, making the soil firm 

 about them, afterwards drawing it up round them with a rake. 

 The cuttings may be planted thickly, as probably they may not 

 all grow, though if the work has been carefully done early in the 

 autumn the failures will be few. 



Cuttings from the Brier may be rooted in the same way. The 

 strongest one-year-old wood should be selected for cuttings, and 

 where the branches can be had with a heel (if only a few are re- 

 quired), it will be an advantage to have them so. At the end of 

 the first year the rooted cuttings of Manetti should be lifted and 

 planted in nursery rows 3 feet apart and 1 foot from plant to jjlant, 

 for budding the following year. The same care in removing all 

 eyes or buds from the lower part of the stocks must be observed as 

 in the case of cuttings ; if eyes are left, they give so much trouble 

 when they develop (which they will do) suckers underground. All 

 the roots must be cut away from the upper part of the stocks, as 

 the latter must not be planted so deeply in the ground as when it 

 was a mere cutting without roots. The object of this is to enable 

 the bud to be inserted as near the bottom of the rooted cutting as 

 possible, so that when it becomes a Rose the stock may be biuried 

 out of sight altogether, and the Rose ultimately be on its own 

 roots. The same routine will be performed wdth the dwarf 

 Brier. To make standards the Briers should be planted early 

 in autumn in nursery rows 3 feet apart, be secured from the 

 winds, and mulched with long manure to encourage the formation 

 of roots. 



Budding Roses is easy and simple; after a little practice any 

 one may do it successfully. The chief thing is to select the wood 

 when in a right condition — when it is neither too soft nor too 

 firm. The experienced budder can tell by the feel of the young 

 wood if the buds are likely to take, and this is the reason why an 

 experienced man seldom fails to make his buds grow. Unless the 

 conditions of success are present, he waits till they are. Very 

 often in dry hot weather the bark is dry and harsh, and the buds, 

 if inserted then, will not grow ; but by waiting a day or two a 

 shower may come and liberate the bark, and then scarcely a bud 

 fails. It is mainly a question of waiting and watching. Stand- 

 ard Briers require more care and patience in waiting till the bark 

 is in the right condition than the dwarfs, and the Manetti may be 

 budded as late as September. Therefore, as soon as budding can 

 begin, which will be early in July, attend to the standard Briers 

 first, then the dwarf Briers, and lastly the Manetti. In budding 

 dwarf Roses — both the Briers and the Manetti — it may happen 



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