CHAP. X VILLA GARDENING 199 



sable in this case as in the other section, as they will succeed in a 

 genial temperature near the glass without bottom-heat. For suc- 

 cession, sow a few seeds at intervals from March to the middle of 

 June. They may be had in small pots for room decoration, or 

 they may, if grown in a stove temperature with abundance of heat, 

 moisture, and pot room, be quickly formed into handsome speci- 

 mens 5 feet or 6 feet high, perfect cones of waving colour. Each 

 plant should have one stake in the centre, to which the main stem 

 should be tied ; but no other training will be necessary, as the 

 plants look best when the feathery side shoots are permitted to fall 

 over gracefully. The plants intended for winter blooming should 

 not have a lower temperature than from 55" to 60°, as they soon die 

 if placed in a cool house, but when they have warmth they continue 

 growing and retain their freshness nearly all \viuter. The soil 

 should be rich, but it must be porous, to allow the liberal supplies 

 of water (which the plants will need) to pass freely away. Turfy 

 loam, six months cut, mixed with an equal portion of leaf-mould, 

 with sand and charcoal enough to keep it open, will grow them to 

 perfection. Save seeds from the handsomest plants only. 



Mignonette. — Fill a number of 3-inch pots in April with 

 light rich soil, and into a slight hollow made in the centre of the 

 pot with the point of the finger drop four or five seeds, cover them 

 lightly, and place the pots in some warm position under glass. 

 When the young plants appear, remove all but the strongest, and 

 grow on near the glass. Each plant will require a small stake to 

 support it, to which its main stem should be tied regularly as it 

 advances in growth. As fast as the roots occupy the soil, shift 

 into larger pots. As the days lengthen, a deep, cool, rather damp 

 pit will be the best place for them, giving plenty of ventilation. 

 All flowers should be pinched oft' as they appear till the autumn, 

 and the required shape should be given to the plants as they pro- 

 gress in growtli. The pyramidal form is the most natural, and 

 requires the least amount of training. Keep the main stem pro- 

 ceeding upwards, and allow the side shoots to spread out horizon- 

 tally, pinching a strong shoot where necessary. The Standard 

 form is acquired by leading up the central stem to the required 

 lieight, and pinching all side shoots to within an inch of the stem 

 till the requisite length of stem has been secured ; then by pinch- 

 ing the leading shoots cause the upper buds to break strongly and 

 form the bushy head. Very large-headed plants may require to be 

 supported by a wire framework to prevent the shoots when large 

 and weighted with blossom from breaking off". These elaborately- 

 trained specimens, if not allowed to produce seed, will last more 

 than one year, but neat young pyramidal plants of one season's 



