CHAP. I VILLA GAKDENING 319 



otf the water before using it. Cold water tends to lower the 

 temperatiu'e of protected borders, but heated water, if even only 

 slightly used, raises the temperature of the soil, A well-drained 

 border is not easily or often over-watered ; but if too much water 

 passes through it the character of the soil is injured. This ques- 

 tion is closely allied to the application of stimulants in the shape 

 of artificial manm-es. I think more might be done with guano, 

 or Clay's fertiliser, or Stauden's, or Amies's manures, or anything 

 else of a like nature. I have no desire to prefer one manufacturer 

 before another, as probably all these stimulants have good qualities, 

 and plants like a change of diet. The proper supply of atmospheric 

 moisture is more essential than even the watering of the border, 

 important though that is. In the early season, before the vines 

 break, the syringe is the imi^lement commonly employed ; but 

 when the leaves unfold, unless we are very sure of the purity of 

 the water, syringing should cease, and the supply of moisture be 

 given by damping the paths, walls, borders, etc. In forcing, clos- 

 ing early of an afternoon on a bright day gives us an opportunity 

 of thoroughly damping the house, and also an immense push to the 

 young growths. Shutting up the sun's rays in the house and keep- 

 ing them there as long as possible is the very essence of economical 

 forcing, but when we close early we must create a genial atmo- 

 sjjhere, or the house will be filled witli insects. Most of the 

 growth, or at least the elongation or lengthening out of the young 

 wood, takes place at night, and this growth is consolidated by 

 the sun's warmth in the daytime ; and it is easy to tell the 

 growth made during a dull damp time by the length of the 

 joints. If red spider appears, the best way to deal with it, if 

 taken in time, is to shut the house up early some warm afternoon, 

 and fill the atmosphere full of moisture, and keep up a state of 

 saturation for a couple of hours, or until the temperature falls 

 below 70°. 



Night and Day Temperatures. — It may be taken as a 

 general rule that we shall not go far wrong if we successfully 

 imitate natural conditions. In the open air the swelling of the 

 buds is a gradual process, and usually the healthiest growth is made 

 after a sharp winter, with the spring somewhat backward ; but 

 where no times'of cold east wind intervenes — where, in fiict, the pro- 

 gress is unchecked from the first opening of the buds, — starting at a 

 night temperatiu'e of 50°, with a rise of 10° or 15° at midday, and 

 gradually rising to 60° or 65° when the fruit is setting, is a safe 

 steady-going course. Some rapid forcers start at once at 60°, and 

 deluge the place with moisture, with the view of forcing growth at 

 once. In experienced hands this is generally attended with success, 



