TO GUAHON. 249 



among these people ; they liave been too long op- 

 pressed, and all their actions are indicative only of 

 subjection. They are entirely under the command 

 of the Governor; and though the government 

 demands no taxes, their condition is but poor. 

 The present Governor is a good man, who treats 

 the poor half-savage Christians like his children ; 

 the former one was a tyrant, whom they never ap- 

 proached without trembling; and, perhaps, on this 

 account, they are still distrustful. 



Tobacco is universally prized; men, women, 

 and children, constantly smoke segars ; they have 

 also betel in their mouths, which gives a disagree- 

 able red dye to the teeth and lips. In all the Spanish 

 settlements the government has the sole right 

 of planting tobacco ; but every body is allowed to 

 do it in Guahon. 



After a ride of two hours, we arrived at Massu, 

 where the boat was in waiting for us. The natives 

 had observed that some of our sailors did not wear a 

 cross round the neck ; and they thought that they 

 must be bad Christians. At five o*clock we reached 

 the ship, which was now lying in the inner harbour, 

 near the fortress of St. Cruz. Lieutenant Schisch- 

 mareff had already begun to lay in a stock of 

 water in a convenient place, which I have marked 

 on my chart. The following particulars are to be 

 observed : the boat must be sent off at high water, 

 that it may reach, without difficulty, the mouth of 

 the river ; here the barrels are to be immediately 



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