TABLE OF CONTENTS xi 



CHAPTER PAGE 



V. General Distribution of Salinity, Temperature, and 

 Density {ConH.) 



Water Masses 86 



The T-S Diagram 86 



Water Masses and their Formation 88 



VI. Ocean Currents Related to the Distribution of Mass. 92 



Introduction 92 



Equations of Motion AppHed to the Ocean 93 



General Equations 93 



Motion in the Circle of Inertia 93 



SimpUfied Equations of Motion 95 



Practical Application of the Hydrodynamic Equation for the 



Computation of Ocean Currents 97 



The Fields of Pressure and Mass in the Ocean 99 



The Field of Mass 100 



The Field of Pressure 101 



Currents in Stratified Water 103 



Practical Methods for Computing Ocean Currents 105 



"Relative" Currents 105 



Slope Currents 108 



Actual Currents 109 



Bjerknes' Theorem of Circulation 112 



Transport by Currents 114 



VII. Wind Currents and Wind Waves 117 



Frictional Forces 117 



The Stress of the Wind 118 



PiUng Up of Water Due to the Stress of the Wind 121 



Wind Currents in Homogeneous Water 123 



Wind Currents in Water in which the Density Increases with Depth 128 



Secondary Effect of Wind in Producing Ocean Currents 129 



Origin of Wind Waves 133 



Form and Characteristics of Wind Waves 134 



Relations Between Wind Velocity and Waves 142 



Waves near the Coast. Breakers 146 



Destructive Waves 147 



VIII. Thermodynamics of Ocean Currents 150 



Thermal Circulation 150 



Thermohaline Circulation 152 



Vertical Convection Currents 153 



IX. Water Masses and Currents of the Oceans 155 



Water Masses of the Oceans 155 



Currents of the North Atlantic Ocean 163 



The North Equatorial Current 163 



The Gulf Stream System 163 



The Florida Current 164 



The Gulf Stream 166 



The North Atlantic Current 168 



Transport 171 



