864 



SUBJECT INDEX 



Wash (bight), 792 ff 

 Water: see Sea -water 

 Water vapour 



conservation equation, 158 



diffusivity in air, 44 



flux convergence, 132 



fractional lowering of pressure, 1 9 



pressure at sea surface, 68 



pressure profiles, 69 



sea-air transfer, 66 ff, 212 

 Waves (sea surface), 567 {see also Internal 

 waves and Wind waves) 



analysis and statistics, 567, 690 ff 



autocovariance function, 577 



baroclinic, 382 



barotropic, 387 



central limit theorem, 572 



deep-sea recording, 687 ff 



detectors and surveys, 578, 580 ff, 588 



directional energy spectrum, 571, 573 ff, 

 576 ff, 693 ff 



distant storms, 676 ff 



edge, 641, 656 



energy per unit surface, 573 



energy spectrum, 567 ff, 576ff 



equations, 568 ff 



filtering, 585 ff 



Kelvin, 390 



long-crestedness, 575 



long ocean waves, 647 



long-shore coherence, 655 



measurement of spectrum, 584 ff 



microseism relations, 700 ff 



moments spectrum, 574 



offshore coherence, 655 



periodic solutions, 569 ff 



principal direction, 574 



quadrature spectrum, 582 



random phases, 571, 572 



Rayleigh distribution, 582 



recorders, 647 



Rossby, 380, 387 ff 



second-order approximations, 586 ff 



shelf waves, 651 ff 



ships motion, 683 ff 



shore approaching, 678 



significant height and period, 691 



slope, 576 



slope detector buoy, 580 



sound back-scatter, 487 



stationary, 701 



statistical formulation, 570 ff 



surf, 650 ff, 681 ff 



types, table 665 



zonal barotropic, 387 



Weather ships, 113 

 West Africa, 149 

 Whales, 541, 548, 553, 557, 560 

 "White caps", "White horses", 489, 665 

 Wind {see also Trade winds and under Waves 

 and Wind waves) 



coefficient, 75 



drag coefficient determinations, 57 



drift theory of Ekman, 323 



effect on drag coefficient, 61 



effect on surges, 629, 634 



generalized treatment, 51 



geostrophic, 194 



horizontal stress, 615 



observational considerations, 54 



profiles, 49, 77, 180 



roses, 186 

 Wind waves, 664 {see also under Waves) 



approaching shore, 678 



directional power spectrum, 684, 693 ff 



distant storms, 676 ff 



energy, 667 



generation, 669 



group behaviour, 666 



kinematics, 664 ff 



observation and analysis, 684 



prediction, 671 ff, 675 



recording, 685 ff, 687 ff 



refraction, 679 



ripples, 721 



spectrum, 667 ff, 676 



surf zone, 681 



types, table 665 

 Woods Hole expeditions, 147, 161, 187, 193, 

 203, 205, 211, 214, 268, 695 



Crawford research vessel, 224 ff 

 Wiistenqviarz, 299 



Wyman- Woodcock expedition, 187, 215, 

 510 



Xenon, 313, 314 



Yamamoto radiation chart, 259 

 Yellowtail fish, 551 

 Yelping sounds, 559 

 Yielding earth, 599, 606 

 Yucatan Channel, 154 



Zeiss turbidity meter, 435 

 Zeroth approximation, 36 ff 

 Zonal baroclinic transport, 342 

 Zonal boundaries, 348 ff 

 Zonal index, 275 

 Zuiderzee Staatscommissie, 625 



