Contents 



PART I 

 SURFACE AND LONG WAVES 



I. General Remarks on Waves 



1. Introduction 1 



2. Classification of waves 2 



3. Group velocity 1 2 



II. Theory of Short and Long Waves 



1. Waves with harmonic wave profile. (Stokes' waves) 16 



2. Further development of the Stokes wave theory 22 



3. Gerstner's rotational waves 26 



4. Short-crested waves 29 



III. Observations and Measurements of Ocean Waves 



1. Testing of the theory by laboratory experiments 31 



2. Observation and measurement of ocean waves 33 



3. Comparison between theory and observations 40 



4. Stereophotogrammetric survey of the sea surface 46 



5. Apparent and real characteristics of waves, the complexity of wind-generated 



waves 50 



6. The energy spectrum and the spectral analysis of recordings of ocean waves 52 



7. Statistical relations between the different apparent wave characteristics and their 



interpretation 57 



8. Scales of sea motion and wind 60 



9. The mathematical formulation of the actual ocean wave pattern 63 



IV. Generation. Growth and Propagation of Waves 



1. Observations of the generation of waves 66 



2. Propagation of a wave disturbance through a region previously undisturbed 68 



3. Theories of the generation and the growth of waves 74 



4. Theory of the growing of significant waves by wind 87 



5. Observations on the growth of waves 93 



6. Growing of spectral components of the wind-generated sea 97 



7. Swell, observations and theory 99 



