vi Contents 



V. Shallow Water Wave Transformation Through External Factors 



1. Shallow water waves; theory and observations 109 



2. The solitary wave of Scott Russell 116 



3. Changes in form of waves by exterior causes 120 



4. Surf on flat and steep coasts 123 



5. Calming effect of oil on waves 139 



VI. Long Waves in Canals and Standing Waves in Entirely or Partly 

 Closed Basins 



1. Long waves in canals 142 



2. Standing waves in closed basins 154 



3. The character of the oscillation of connected systems 175 



4. Observed standing waves in lakes, bays and adjacent seas 182 



5. Influence of the earth's rotation on tidal waves and seiches 202 



6. Generation and growth of the oscillations of the sea and lake surface 219 



7. Dislocation and explosion waves 237 



PART II 

 TIDES AND TIDAL CURRENTS 



VII. Principal Features of Tidal Phenomena 



1. Review of the phenomena 245 



2. Tidal observations, gauges 250 



VIII. The Tide-Generating Forces 



1. Fundamentals for determining tidal forces 254 



2. The system of tide-producing forces as a function of the zenith distance 258 



3. The harmonic analysis of the tidal potential 263 



4. The experimental proof of the tide-generating forces 268 



IX. Theory of the Tides 



1. The equilibrium theory 272 



2. The dynamical theory of the tides 279 



3. Canal theory of the tides 290 



4. Remarks concerning the dynamic theory of tides 296 



X. The Harmonic Analysis of Tidal Observations 



1. The preparation of sea-level recordings and their scientific use 299 



2. Characteristics of the tides as shown by their harmonic constants 305 



3. Variations in the harmonic tidal constants 308 



4. Prediction of the tides. Tide tables, tfde predicting machines 311 



XI. Tides and Tidal Currents in the Proximity of Land 



1. Preliminary remarks 320 



2. General considerations on the influence of the earth's rotation and of 



the friction on tides and tidal currents 320 



3. Tides in adjacent seas 337 



