32 



Observations and Measurements of Ocean Waves 



1-8 



1-7 



1-5 



'■B 1-4 



1-2 



1-0 



0-5 0-6 07 08 0-9 l-O H h2 I-3 14 I-5 I-6 



Wavelength A , mm 



Fig. 17. Relationship between wave velocity and wave length according to experiments 



in a wave tank. 



relation c = j (gljln). This equation satisfies very well the observations. 

 Deviations average 0-39%. Figure 18 shows the results of the evaluation 

 of photographs of orbits of floating particles. These orbits were circles every- 



10 

 o 

 <u 



I 20 

 3 



$ 30 

 a 



E 



° 40 



N" 



f 50 

 o 



60 



70. 



12 3 4 5 



Radius of orbits, cm 



Fig. 18. Relationship between radii of orbits and depth according to experiments in 



a wave tank. 



where, and the decrease of their radii, with increasing depth corresponds 

 exactly to the theory, as shown by the figure. Figure 19 shows the velocity 

 of water transport connected with wave motion in the direction of propagation 

 of the wave, according to the text on page 26. 



