Observations and Measurements of Ocean Waves 



41 



observation of ocean waves is not by any means conclusive with regard 

 to the wave profile. As a matter of fact, all these theories give very much 

 the same result as to the relation between the velocity of propagation c and 

 the wave length A, and the period T respectively, which is given numerically 

 in the above formulae. Table 2 gives a few correlated numerical values 

 according to the preceding formulae, together with the frequently needed 

 values for * and a. 



The numerous observations collected from various sources were mostly 

 grouped by the different observers into average values, in order to eliminate 

 random errors resulting from individual measurements. A most satisfactory 

 agreement between observation and theory has been obtained. A very 

 meritorious compilation of older observations (previous to 1914) was made 

 by Zimmerman (1920, p. 663). From this are taken Figs. 25 and 26, which 



28 



24 



S 



< 20 

 E 



16 



12 



> 



1 8 



4 



40 



80 



200 



240 



280 



120 160 



Length L , m 



Fig. 25. Wave length and wave velocity of ocean waves (Zimmermann). 



