56 



Observations and Measurements of Ocean Waves 



3 375 / mip 



6 7 8 9 10 



Period of wcves, sec 



20 30 40 

 11-26-46 



3' 7 mm 



7 e 9 10 



Period of waves, sec 



20 



30 40 

 11-26-46 



Fig. 34. Above: Results of mechanical periodogram analysis of Wave Record B713a, 



Bermuda, 21 February, 1947, depth 120ft. Below: Results of periodogram analysis of 



Wave Record 53-X Cuttyhunk. (E coast of USA), 15 September, 1946, depth 75ft. 



wave analysators which disintegrate a section of a wave recording into 

 a "wave spectrum". Examples of such wave spectra are to be found in Fig. 34. 

 In the upper diagram there is shown a section of a 20 min wave record, 

 below the continuous spectral distribution is given. The greatest deve- 

 lopment occurs in the 8 to 10 sec band of the "wave train" and maximum 



