Shallow Water Wave Transformation through External Factors 133 



A Smoll divergence 



Shore line 



flkc >' 



Fig. 62. Refraction of waves along two sections of straight beaches with different exposures. 



The divergence along section A-B is less than along B-C, and the wave height along A-B 



exceeds therefore the wave height along B~C (Munk and Traylor). 



Table 17 



Submarine canyons. Portions of wave crests over the centre of a canyon 

 are in deeper water and move ahead faster than the portions on either side 

 (Fig. 63). Consequently, the waves fan out, resulting in divergence (low 



Contours 



Orthogonols 



Fig. 63. Left: refraction of waves by a submarine canyon. Divergence (low waves) over 



the mouth of the canyon and convergence (high waves) on either side. Right: refraction 



of waves by a submarine ridge. Convergence over the ridge. 



waves) over the head of the canyon and convergence (high waves) on 

 either side. 



