of food. Two days at first, until you get started. 



I secure and spay cats the same as pups, only they are 

 much easier to spay; but it is well to keep one eye on their 

 claws while so doing. 



I think the antiseptic solution is beneficial on all sur- 

 gery at the strength of one to two-thousandth part, mostly 

 used upon your hands, but some in and on the wounds. 



I think the stitches should be removed the third day on 

 cats and dogs, if the dogs have not already licked them out; 

 a pair of small scissors is best to cut stitches with. 



CALF SPAYING 



To spay calves two to ten weeks old, I like to swing 

 them up like the bitches are; and cut in as high as the ud- 

 der, without cutting into it, then three inches down; and 

 look behind the bladder, this is much easier than spaying 

 bitches; you have only to try a few times to make it easy to 

 do. Remember their teats not quite so high as your shoul- 

 der will be best, but some calves are large and their heads 

 and shoulders will rest on the ground. Sew up skin and 

 flesh, over and over, then tighten up evenly, your thread 

 from bottom to top. I use flax thread six strands, but put 

 no wax on it. Spay thousands of scrub calves and do your 

 country good. Ask your butcher when he kills a calf to 

 let you split your cut, and feel in while he skins, one or 

 more; take one inch of the uterus off with the ovary. 



CAPONIZING CHICKENS 



The most perplexing castration I find is the caponizing 

 oi chickens. I have removed, as I supposed, two testicles 

 each from young chickens, and found them when grown and 

 fat, each one to have from one to three testicles remaining 

 in him. These we call slips, and they will crow and have 



