86 



L\TERIOR AREANGEMEN'.S. 



rods are attached by a loop and staple to the front wall at the 

 lower end, and to the back wall at the upper. This method is 

 preferable to having the studs screwed into the rafter, as they 

 can be easily removed, or the whole tegument of trellis may, 

 if desired, be taken down and put up again without much 

 trouble. This is of great importance on occasions of cleaning 

 and painting the sashes, etc. Fig. 28, C, shows the perforated rod 

 which is here referred to, the looped end being fixed in common 

 staples. 



When provision is made for a middle trellis, this should 

 always have a cur^^ilinear shape, as in a, Fig. 29. This form 



Fig. 29. 



affords not only the largest training surface, but presents a 

 larger surface to the light, than any other form that can be 

 adopted, and, what is of more importance in regard to small 

 houses, it occupies less room in proportion to its training surface 

 than any other trellis with which we are acquainted. 



Cross-trellises, or horizontal upright trellises in the middle of 

 the house, not only destroy the effect within, but are worse than 

 useless. Where the house is of sufficient size to admit of a 

 middle trellis, and a sufficiency of roof-surface to afford the cen- 

 tre of the sashes to be kept clear of foliage, we should prefer 

 having a sloping trellis on the back wall, and the centre bed 

 occupied with dwarf standards, planted either in a straight or 

 zig-zag line along the border, which, under good management, 

 will be as fruitful as if trained on a trellis, while their appear- 

 ance would be pleasing and handsome. Fig. 29 will convey a 

 better idea of our method than by description. Fig. 30 shows 

 the same system carried out in a double-roofed house. 



Trellises are now made generally of wire, as being cheaper 



