LIFE OF THE AUTHOR. 93 



shone brightly, or when her light was partially supplied by the 

 flickerings of the distant lamp. But I had often occasion to ob- 

 serve both men and women, kneeling in fervent prayer at the little 

 oratories so common in the streets, especially at that of the 

 ' Madonna del Archetto,' so well known in the year 1796, and so 

 incessantly resorted to since that interesting period. 



" I was not aware until chance put me up to it, how careful the 

 Roman Government is in providing for the spiritual wants of the 

 soul. Having mistaken the hour of rising, I was in the street at 

 half-past three in the morning ; and seeing a man with a gun" in his 

 hand, and a couple of dogs by his side, I pushed up, in order to 

 have a word or two with him. On my remarking that it was some- 

 what early to go in quest of game, he replied that his chase lay a 

 good way off; and that he had just come from the three o'clock 

 mass, which is always said at that hour for the accommodation of 

 those who indulge in the sports of the field. 



" He who has leisure on hand to examine into the nature Oi 

 religious establishments, cannot help being convinced of their utility. 

 In Rome it is at once apparent. There, no man ever need com- 

 plain of the want of a meal, for he is sure to find it at the charitable 

 convent door, where, every day in the year, food is distributed to all 

 who come for it. An English gentleman, who had resided fifteen 

 years in Rome, once told me that he had never known a single 

 instance of any person dying through want. It would be wrong in 

 me to withhold this small tribute of praise due to the monasteries, 

 as I am thoroughly convinced of their great benefit to all ranks of 

 people. The time of the inmates is spent either in salutary advice 

 at the confessional, or in offering up prayers for the nation, or in 

 attending at stated hours to the wants of the poor and distressed. 

 The good monks may be seen taking the fresh air in the evening, 

 for the preservation of their health, in some favourite quarter of the 

 town, but they all retire to the convent before it is dark ; the * Ave 

 Maria,' or short form of prayer to implore the intercession of the 

 blessed Virgin for the welfare of the city, announcing that the time 

 of returning within their enclosures has already arrived. 



" Cervantes has told us that there is nothing certain in this life; 

 ' No hay cosa segura en esta vida : ' and that, where you least 



