xiv CONTENTS 



first barhal-stalk — A "bootless" tramp — A good shot — Anparh, 

 tlie shikiiri, is not wasteful — The side valleys of the upper Baspa 

 — Dangerous pathway — A stone-shoot — Narrow escape of my 

 servant — B:ilti coolies behave well — A chance at a ram — A good 

 shot — The wily ram shelves himself — Yakub's ascent after lawful 

 mutton — The ram is perverse — Halaled at last — " Never again," 

 says Yaki'ib — A grand panorama — Anparh's tactics — Temperature 

 of the valley — Heavy snowstorm — Elevation of the camp — Of the 

 Gugerang Pass — Tibetans and their sheep — An ugly specimen of 

 humanity — I fall ill — Uncertain weather continues — Flowers 

 peep out with doubting hearts — Indisposition, blue devils, 

 collapse — A quick recovery ....... 257 



CHAPTER XVIII 



THE rpPEK BASPA — (continued) 



Another stalk — Ends in failure — But bag a ram next day — Excellent 

 though unsanctified chops — The god Kardu is sq^iared at last — 

 Features of the upper valley — A tramp among the hill - tops 

 — 17,000 feet above sea level — Freezing cold and melt- 

 ing heat again — The Tibetan gale drives us back — Driven to 

 bed in desperation — An airy bedroom — • Nature freezes most 

 audibly — Give up my intended tramp — Take a walk round the 

 base of the peak — Return to camp — A snowstorm — Beautiful 

 effect in moonlight — A dash for Tibet— Anparh— An enlivening 

 episode — Garh walls try to trade on their own account — Tibetans 

 object 270 



CHAPTER XIX 



FIRST STEPS IN TIBET 



Danam Panboh recovers his sheep — A young Tibetan — His intelligence 

 more apparent than his moustache — Tibetan officials — Anparh is 

 unwilling to make a start — Slakes up his mind at last — Arsamang 

 camp — The way up — A scene of desolation — Rampant moraines 

 mounting on each other — First view of Giigerang Pass — Reach 

 the crest — And enter Tibet — A Balti coolie falls ill — Too much 

 "piiltas" the cause — A new dish — Fraternal devotion — Pechang 

 — The Baltis meet an old friend — Are greatly comforted — -Ascend 

 a side valley — No game seen — Unique scenery on the road — A 

 disrupted mountain — Stunted trees appear — Rana — Namitatto — 

 Green fields appear — Yellow furze ...... 283 



