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PART I 



AS TOR, KASHMIR 



IXTEODUCTOEY 



I PURPOSE in the following pages to attempt some 

 description of sport I have enjoyed in and beyond the 

 " Abode of Snow." Seven times have I journeyed for 

 periods ranging from three to six months into and beyond 

 the vast ranges of mountains, from the Indus, which 

 bounds Kashmir on the west, to the Nipal frontiers of 

 Kamaon on the east. The difficulties and troubles which 

 fell to my lot, and they were not a few, bear no com- 

 parison with the pleasures of travelling through the grandest 

 scenery, and following the noblest game, in the world. 

 The mere sight of the journals I faithfully kept during 

 my wanderings brings back to memory many of the most 

 delightful days of my life. 



My first expedition was undertaken twenty years ago, 

 when I travelled along the present well-known route from 

 Rawalpindi to Baramiila. In those days one marched 

 along a rough mountain road, and progress was slow ; and 

 as tents and a full travelling equipment had to be taken 

 from the very beginning of the journey in the plains, 



