INTRODUCTORY 3 



The journey from Baramiila to Srinagar, the capital of 

 Kashmir, is such a commonplace performance now, that 

 detailed description may be omitted. Let us leave the 

 beaten track as quickly as possible. It is not necessary 

 to visit the capital if the traveller is pressed for time or 

 intends touring in the western and north-western parts of 

 the Kashmir territory. A visit to Srinagar means the loss 

 of several days and the waste of money in the purchase 

 of curios. 



My first expedition was to the Wardwan valley and its 

 famous ibex grounds ; — that, as I have said, was twenty 

 years ago ; my last was undertaken within the last two 

 years. But as it is not necessary to follow any chrono- 

 logical order, nor perhaps expedient that I should relate 

 the events of all my various journeys, I will begin with the 

 one which, to me at any rate, was the most interesting. 



