KASHMIRI HORSE-THIEVES 15 



there is a grand view from the bridge which spans the 

 muddy stream at this point. Ibex are said to be found 

 up this valley, and markhor later in the season. There is 

 a penal settlement of Kashmiris a little distance up this 

 valley : it consists of people who gave so much trouble in 

 the valley stealing ponies, that the Maharajah banished 

 them to this spot, under the shadow of the naked mountain, 

 several years ago. Giirikot was reached at seven, a very hot 

 march from Chhagum. Eozi Khan, Wazi'r of Astor, had his 

 house and family here, as Astor is not a nice place to live in. 

 I sent for the Khan at once to arrange my shooting 

 trip, but he had gone to Astor. In his stead came his 

 little son with a tray of sweets and a samovar of hot tea, 

 — quite the Central Asian custom, — which brought home 

 to me, very pleasantly, the fact that I was now far from 

 Hindustan and its exclusive customs. Eozi Khan has an 

 older son who is Thiinadar (police officer) of Ast(5r, so that 

 the civil government of this district is entirely in the 

 hands of this family. I reached Astor at nine next day, 

 meeting on the road a British officer returning from his 

 shooting : he had bagged six markhor ; very good heads 

 they seemed to me, but he said he was not satisfied, and 

 was afraid his colonel (the gentleman I met on the pass) 

 would not be very well pleased with him. Soon after my 

 arrival, Eozi Khan paid me a visit, and we had a long talk. 

 He promised me a good man and a good place for a 

 certain consideration, which I agreed to, with the stipulation 

 that I must be satisfied with my sport. The fort is on 

 the edge of a deep ravine, at the bottom of which flows a 

 stream. The road from Gurikot descends to the water, 

 and there is a very stiff pull up again to the fort. A 

 small tank lies in front of the fort gate, and a few poplars 

 shade its banks ; on the other two sides are the houses and 

 huts of the garrison. My tent was pitched on the right bank 



