CONTENTS xiii 



CHAPTER XV 



STAG AND BEAR SHOOTIXG IX KASHMIR 



PAOK 



To Leh, capital of Ladakh — Route from Leh to Kashmir — Leave it at 

 Shargul— March to Soru— Story of General Zorawar Singh and 

 his death — From Sorii to Siiknis — A human skeleton — Details 

 of fatal accident to Dr. Genge and his party — The Suknis bear 

 and his harem — Master of the village crops— Cannot find him 

 — Stag-shooting in the upper Wardwan — Honking (driving) is 

 unsuccessful — A stag calls — Go for him— Just in time — Difficulty 

 in "haldling" — An hysterical coolie — A fine trophy — March for 

 the valley — ^ly first bear — Bad weather again — A forty-eight 

 hours' snowstorm — Bear-shooting is ruined — A sociable snipe — 

 Cross over into the valley — Five days' hard work — Result, a 

 stag and a bear — Shooting tour comes to an end — Joined by 

 Yakub and Chamurti — The latter's adventures — Yakiib lionised 

 at home — Is feted bj' nawabs — How he died .... 232 



PAET III 

 BEHIND THE HIMALAYAS— A PEEP IXTO TIBET 



CHAPTER XYI 



THE BASPA VALLEY 



A tliree months' tour — Description of the valley — The river — Villages 

 — People — Climate — Theog — Mattiana — Sarahan — Meet my 

 friend — Rajah of Basdhir — He has tiffin — Is a keen sportsman 

 — "Well educated in English — Kilba — Headquarters of Forest 

 officer — Large staflf of woodcutters — How they are fed — Lay in 

 my supplies — How I managed my transport — Enter the Baspa 

 valley — Villages on the road — The course of the river — A trans- 

 formation scene — Sangla village — The level valley — An ancient 

 lake — The passes — Sheep — Sheep-stages — Difference between 

 Tibetan and Himalayan sheep — The upper valley and river 

 — Bad road — Miserable huts — "Wild women — More information 

 regarding passes, roads, etc. — Chitkiil ..... 247 



CHAPTER XVII 



THE UPPER BASPA 



Bad weather— A plurality of fathers — "Garokchs" — The village god 

 — How he was propitiated — Proceed to the upper valley — My 



