CONTENTS xi 



PAGE 



Buddhists— The district of Lahoul— A sporting trip recommended 

 —Resume the march- The last villages— A pass into Zanskar— 

 The fall of a mountain on a village— Patsio annual fair and 

 market— Filthy surroundings— Put up a bridge— Rather un- 

 successfully— Zingzingbar— Halt at Choten-rong-jeun— A cold 

 camphig-place— Bad weather begins— Collapse of Indian servants 

 —Alter niv plans— Mules and servants dispensed with— Two 



142 

 Lamas turn up ....■•■■■ 



CHAPTER XI 



THE JOURNEY TO LADAKII— (COTlWjlMfif^) 



"VVe force the pass at last— Yakub in a bad way— Height of Tibetan 

 passes— A frozen lake— A grand sno\\-y panorama— AVater-parting 

 of the Indus and Chinab— Nasman-Nisman camp- Saichu camp 

 —Meet the first Tibetan traders to Patsio — Their sheep — Salt 

 trade — Kiam camp — Enter Kashmir territory — Sumdo camp 

 —More sheep — Lachalang Pass crossed — Effect of rarefied 

 atmosphere — First game animal seen— Pangta camp — Ponies 

 stray— Reach Rupshu plains— A long march— Rokchen camp- 

 Examine a sportsman's bag— Picked-up heads— Test of made-up 

 trophies— Great cold at Rokchen— Coolies paid up— Yaks engaged 

 —Plateau of Rupshu— Meet a sportsman from Calcutta— Leave 

 Rokchen — Tso-kar salt-lake — Sheldrakes — Their nests— Polo- 

 konka Pass— Tibetan cairns adorned with horns— The Piiga 

 valley— Raldong camp— Varying temperatures— Reach the river 

 Indus— Delay in crossing— Yahajaha camp— Lamas' encampment 

 —Shoot a black wolf— Description of him— First limit after nyan 

 —The valley of frozen lakes— Get on the wrong side of the pass 

 — A Tibetan beggar — See some nyan — Reach the Mirpa-tso— 

 Three impressions of Ladakh — Cross the Thaota-la — Reach 

 Slnishal at last 1^4 



CHAPTER XII 



NYAN (OVI.S AMMON) SHOOTING 



The village of Shushal— Its mud " bangla "—Arrange for the shoot- 

 i,ig-loid Tashi— Treatment of native shikaris— Hardiness of 

 Tibetan ponies— Start for shooting ground— Sarap again— No 

 post— One of the hardships of Tibetan travelling— Sarap deposed 

 —My boy head shikari— The regular Kashmir shikar establish- 

 ment—First sight of nyan— My first stalk— My boy shikari does 

 splendidly— Bag my first Oris «;h?«o?i— Camp out— The Pangur- 

 tso— On the border— Some more nyan— The old ram's cautious 

 generalship— A successful stalk— Habits of the nyan— The valleys 



