X CONTENTS 



CHAPTER VIII 



BEAU SHOOTING — [contimoecl) 



PAGE 



The beautiful Phuhvain valley — Good for stags in tlie season — A 

 dangerous pathway — Reach Bagtour — Beautiful Krishganga 

 valley — Anticipating a bogus tliunderstorin — Waiting for an 

 unpunctual Ijear — Sharafa's imaginary ailments — Shoot a musk- 

 deer — Tremendous power of Henry's "450 Express — Musk-deer 

 numerous — How they are slaughtered —The Hant valley — Nanga 

 Parbat — Legends about it— How the "naked mountain" was 

 named — The nomenclature of Himalayan peaks — Ibex not at 

 home — A snow-cock's family — The i)Ower of maternal love — 

 Delude a coolie — -Waiting for a bear — A friendly hill-crow turns 

 him out of cover — A painful stalk — Ends in failure — Wounded 

 bear esca[)es — Two graceful hinds — Little flies cause great 

 irritation — Hill-crows drive a musk-deer over me — A bear's 

 bed-chamber — My shooting trip comes to an end — Return 

 journey ........... 117 



PART II 



CHANG-CHEN-MO, TIBET 



CHAPTER IX 



THE rUOVIXCE OF LADAKH, AND THE WAY THITHER 



The happy hunting gi'ound of the Englishman — How he takes his sport 

 — General description of the country — Start from Lahore — Road as 

 far as Sultanpur— The transport difficulty — My travelling kit — 

 Details of arrangements — Chamurti, my Tibetan pony — Fifteen 

 coolie-loads for a six months' trip — The Kulu valley — English- 

 men settled there — Flying-foxes — Destruction caused by them — 

 Game in Kulu almost entirely destroyed — A sporting tour round 

 the Kiilii valley — The Ralah bungalow — Crossing the Rotang — 

 Native servants — Chanu'irti's ]iranks — My spirits rise with the 

 elevation — Koksar bungalow — Reach Kailang .... 129 



CHAPTER X 



THE JOURNEY TO LADAKH 



Kailang — Unavoidable delay — A difference in temperature — The 

 Moravian Mission — Thakur Hari Singh — His travels — Lahouli 



