I02 BEAR SHOOTING 



came to, had subsided again to a murmur. The passage 



was somewhat rough, though short, and the boat used for 



crossing was very unsuitable for such a river. In shape 



it was exactly like the boats on the Jehlani, in the valley, 



liut longer, without increase of beam. When the river is 



rougher than usual, all crossing is stopped, sometimes 



for two and three days. The boatmen are Kashmiris 



imported from the Jehlam, the timidest watermen in the 



world, and perhaps the worst for such a strong and 



boisterous river as the Indus at this ferry. The Bunji 



ferry was the most important point on the main route 



from Kashmir to the frontier post, Gilgit, for many years 



before I travelled in these parts, and certainly the weakest 



link of communication ; but the Kashmir officials of that 



period never gave the matter a thought, though disasters 



had occurred more than once, owing to the breakdowns 



caused by rough weather. Of course these defects were 



promptly removed when the Gilgit Agency was established 



by the Indian Government. I reached Biinji at 10 p.m., 



and found here my invalid khidmatgar. A dirty sheet 



was his only garment ; the middle portion of his body was 



perfectly raw ; the blisters he had suffered from had burst, 



but would not heal ; he was plastered over with a black, 



greasy ointment which, he said, had been given him by a 



wise man in the fort. I vowed on the spot that I would 



never eat anything from his hands again, and realisation of 



my dreams of warm and comforting food was delayed. 



It was extremely hot down in the plain, and the Hies in 



the apricot garden were a perfect plague. I sent my traps 



on ahead and started again in the evening, camped on the 



road for a few hours, and moved on at midnight. This 



night march was absolutely necessary at this time of the 



year, as the heat made day travel most dangerous, most 



risky. 



