134 THE PROVINCE OF LADAKH 



can be filled up to any extent, and were comfortably carried 

 in the usual way by a coolie over the worst ground. In 

 this manner I used up the skins and hides I had collected 

 during many expeditions in the plains. Good shoemakers, 

 to make up these things, can be found in any large station ; 

 they are very handy in turning out anything required, if 

 properly instructed. I obtained some manilla rope and 

 cords from Calcutta ; they are practically indestructible, 

 and are most handy for tying up mule loads. The want 

 of a stout cord in the mountains is a most serious hindrance, 

 and sometimes causes the greatest inconvenience and delay. 

 A small supply will always be useful, but a sharp look-out 

 must be kept on the porters who carry it, for they will 

 invariably walk off with cords when relieved by a fresh 

 set. My tents were two patent " ridgeless " from Cawn- 

 pore, made of tan waterproof drill. This is a most handy 

 pattern ; they were thoroughly waterproof, and withstood 

 the furious gales of the Tibetan plateaux most efficiently ; 

 they were exceedingly light, just a coolie-load each. I 

 must not forget my Chamiirti pony — a handy little grey 

 under thirteen hands, and as sure-footed as a goat. I 

 bought him at the Eampur fair, beyond Simla, for 150 

 rupees. He was at first almost as shy as the wild sheep 

 of his mountain home, but after a time became tame as 

 a spaniel, and followed me during my long tramp like the 

 most faithful of dogs. The only drawback about him 

 was that he had to be shod, and shoeing could not be done 

 in most of the places I visited. In consequence, his hoofs 

 got worn when he lost his shoes, and he walked very 

 gingerly along the stony valleys of Tibet. But he saved 

 me many a weary trudge in the long stages of my journey, 

 and his tricks and friskiness made him a most amusing 

 companion. 



The six mules and Chamurti, as I called my purchase. 



